« Bejewelled Treasures »: The Al-Thani collection

The much-awaited exhibition “Bejewelled treasures”, the Al Thani collection at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London cannot fail to impress. The impression, on the contrary, will be to have eyes filled with stars and the palpable emotion of having seen something quite exceptional. A private collection exploring the great themes, from tradition to modernity, in Indian jewellery.

The exhibition features over a hundred objects and jewellery pieces from the private collection of Sheikh Hamad bin Abdullah Al-Thani. The jewels are organized into six different universes: treasure, court, kunden & enamel, transition period, modernity, contemporary masters. For each, one spectacular piece of jewellery serves as an introduction to the universe.

The exhibition welcomes you with a turban ornament dating from 1935. A fabulous piece sparkling like a thousand flames due to the presence of 17 diamonds of unprecedented purity, totaling 152.64ct. This ornament also illustrates the influence of Europe on India by the simple detail of the mount which is made of platinum and not gold as traditionally used in India.

In the first part of the exhibition are presented remarkable gems: sapphire, spinels, emeralds and diamonds among which “Arcot II”. This precious stone comes from the historic mine of Golconde, which was controlled at the time by the Nawab of Arcot. In 1767, the diamond was sent with another to London as a gift to Queen Charlotte. To meet Western tastes, the diamond was re-cut for more symmetry and its weight went from 23.65ct to 17.21ct. Note that in this is also presented a flat octagonal diamond of 30.22ct, this form reveals all the purity of the stone which is simply polished.

The pearls are as fascinating as the gems – sometimes more than 15 mm in diameter – at that time they were entirely natural and came from the Arabic Golf.

In the court universe section is presented a jade cup with very refined lines and modest dimensions. This piece is of notable historical importance. It is the oldest object that belonged to a Mughal Emperor (1607-1608). Nearby is showcased the bird the Sultan of Tipu’s throne, entirely set with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, garnets, pearls, coral, topaz, and moonstone according to the technique of the navaratna arrangement.

In the 16th century, the Portuguese import the technique of enamel to India. The back of this turban ornament is a very beautiful example showing patterns of flowers and birds in colours typical of Jaipur.

The last part of the exhibition presents creations by JAR and Bhagat. The latter uses very discreet crimping techniques using laser and metal rods, in order to make the gems even more sublime.

These treasures make us travel in the time of the Maharajas and the past splendour of the mines of Golconde from where the most beautiful diamonds come from. This exhibition also highlights the craftsmen’s technique, for what would be all these magnificent stones without the talent and ingenuity of these men to turn them into high jewellery.

The exhibition takes place until 10 April 2016, so you still have time to book your tickets for London!

For fine book connoisseurs, for those who wish to keep a souvenir of this wonderful exhibition or for those who couldn’t go, the exhibition book is made for you. Written by Suzan Stronge, senior curator in the Asian Department of the Victoria & Albert Museum, and richly illustrated by beautiful photos, the book takes the reader into the heart of these times of great splendor. Bejewelled Treasures: The Al-thani Collection, Susan Stronge, édition V & A, 144 pages.