Written by Julie de Los Rios - Tuesday, September 26, 2023
On 3 July, during Haute Couture Week in Paris, the
Informing and educating consumers about the incredible world of
On 3 July 2023, the NDC took advantage of Haute Couture Week in Paris, during which jewellery brands present their Fine Jewellery collections, to organise a conference-debate entitled Diamond Transformation. “Our goal is to raise consumer awareness about natural diamonds, our industry and its global impact,” said Kristina Buckley Kayel, NDC’s Managing Director in North America. Leaders from the natural diamond industry and members of the Botswana community attended the event.
The talk covered the environmental and social impact of the diamond industry, as well its challenges and commitments. Kristina Buckley Kayel gave the keynote speech. “Our goal is to raise consumer awareness and appreciation of the values of natural diamonds and the industry’s global impact, which includes providing livelihood and well-being for over 10 million people worldwide and biodiversity protection for what would otherwise be vulnerable species and ecosystems.”
Led by Livia Firth MBE, founder of Eco-Age – a British consultancy that encourages organisations to adopt ethical and sustainable practices – recognised as a Leader of Change by the United Nations and winner of the United Nations Fashion 4 Development Award and the Rainforest Alliance Award, the discussions focused on the industry’s progress and objectives, asserting that the diamond industry has made more effort than any other industry in terms of social progress and corporate social responsibility. In particular, thanks to the Kimberley Process initiated in 2003. Largely supported by the De Beers group, this agreement aims to eradicate the trade of conflict diamonds across international borders. To highlight the efforts made, Livia Firth emphasised that the process of setting up a mine is long and complex, from start to finish. “Opening a mine means having a plan that also includes an exit plan.”
In the presence of the NDC’s ambassador, actress Lily James, the debates highlighted the various challenges facing the natural diamond industry. The topics covered included diamond traceability in supply chains, women’s emancipation, local community support, carbon neutrality and biodiversity conservation. High-profile speakers shared their insights before a prestigious audience. These experts, who like Livia Firth drive positive change in the industry, included Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability and Institutional Affairs Officer at Kering and Co-Chair of the
The audience, made up of journalists, members of parliament, federations, jewellers, and executives from LVMH and other luxury brands, also heard some compelling testimonials. Case in point – Lily James recounted her trip to Botswana. "It was an experience that changed my life. The positive impact was everywhere I looked", she emphasized, before stressing the importance of communicating with those on the ground. "I feel an important social responsibility. I have a platform, so I have access to people – especially young people – who listen to me. I want to share my journey of discovery with them. Visiting Botswana and seeing the impact of the diamond industry on the community really inspired me. It's a story I want to continue to share", she continued.
Coming directly from Botswana, Kesego Kereemang demonstrated the industry’s positive impact, particularly in terms of social issues, pointing out that since natural diamonds have been mined, the country offers free access to education and healthcare.
Finally, Livia Firth stressed that other industries could draw inspiration from the natural diamond industry, which is constantly evolving and stands out for its environmental and social approach. She also pointed out that the efforts made in the diamond industry are not as clear-cut in other areas such as fashion. Fearing unbalanced situations similar to the fashion industry, she was pleasantly surprised to see a real transformation when she visited Lucara's Karowe mine.
Her comments were backed up by contributions from the other experts. With over 20 years' international experience in public policy, fashion, tech and jewellery, as well as a background in law, Iris Van der Veken has played a major role in transforming the industry. “When looking at the contracts, I often saw things that had a lot of room for improvement from a health and safety standpoint with the use of chemicals, for example.” She credits the Kimberley Process with triggering a wave of transformation. "We are on the right track, but that is not enough. We need to intensify and focus more on measurable actions regarding our impact", she continued.
"In 2005, De Beers announced their Best Practice Principles or BPP, and the Responsible Jewellery Council was created, enabling the industry to unite for the first time around two specific goals. To protect the integrity of the value chain and to improve product quality", emphasized Iris Van der Veken, before highlighting another major step, in 2015, when the 17 Sustainable Development Goals were negotiated, presented and adopted by all the member states of the United Nations. “Now, I think one of the biggest topics we need to tackle is in the middle of the supply chain, at the heart, where the small businesses who do not have the capacity to really improve practices are”, suggested Van der Veken.
Another initiative by two of the industry's biggest competitors was showcased during the evening. Kering and Cartier have founded the
Among major stakeholders in the industry, Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability and Institutional Affairs Officer at Kering, has worked relentlessly towards an ever more sustainable industry. “When I think about the fashion, jewellery, and watch industry, it’s always about transparency and traceability. We are unable to make concrete actions if we don’t know where the raw materials come from”, she noted, underlining Kering's approach to diamonds and their supply chain. “There are several new technologies coming onto the market to facilitate traceability. We use the Sarine Technologies traceability innovation for our brand Boucheron which is great, but what’s really important here is to have technology that can be used by the whole industry”, she said, before highlighting the new regulations put in place by the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), which will require EU-based companies to disclose more information about the origin of their raw materials, from cotton and silk to diamonds. This should certainly change the game in the future.
Marie-Claire Daveu concluded on an optimistic note. “I think what we are doing is so important because when we have volume and represent many brands, together, we will be able to push supply chains further in their efforts and change the paradigm”, she predicted, before reiterating the importance of traceability.
André Messika shares this priority. As a member of the
After highlighting the efforts and progress made by stakeholders in the natural diamond industry, the evening ended with a convivial cocktail reception, giving guests a chance to both mingle and reflect on the debate together. With a broader common goal in mind – that of creating a better future, all together, hand in hand. “In what other industry do we see such collaboration? The industry is not perfect, but the progress and commitment are undeniable.” These lines from Kristina Buckley Kayel's keynote speech perfectly sum up the shared commitment of the members of the industry.
This conference-debate took up a major challenge: to give each of the guests, and all those who heard about it, the desire to contribute towards a better world. Each in their own way.
Article produced in collaboration with the