Meeting with Buccellati

It is with great pride and pleasure that I write here the first page of a series of encounters, and by no means an insignificant one… Encounters with jewellery « Maisons » I value and am particularly fond of. Not only due to the quality of their work and the attention given to the choice of the stones, but also because we have developed strong ties, ever since the launching of the blog, making it possible for them to entrust me to take care of their high jewellery pieces, of unique creations or of the latest highlight.

To illustrate these encounters, Nicolas Mingalon, photographer and still life specialist, offered to take part in the adventure and put his skills to good use, while introducing me to still life photography. From creation to realisation, from reflections about the Maison to the production of a scenario which will result in a photo, the difficult choice of a universe, of objects…

Through this series of encounters, my wish is too make you discover or rediscover these fascinating jewellery Maisons.

The Italian Maison Buccellati was the first to trust me. On the first floor of the Rhin Hôtel, on the prestigious place Vendôme, visiting Buccellati is like travelling in time, turning into an Italian princess to whom everything could happen… especially the best of things!

This is precisely what I wished to illustrate by this photo, taken on a charming lady’s writing desk dating back to Napoléon III accessorised with Limoges porcelain, a cloisonné enamel box and a small glass bottle, a perfect fit for this magnificient jewellery set in diamonds and emeralds. A necklace and a pair of earrings, in two tones of engraved gold set with yellow diamonds, white diamonds and emeralds from Colombia ; a ring, icon of the Maison, also in two tones of gold, set with rose-cut diamonds. The set is placed carelessly, as if in the middle of a reckless evening… What could have been happening is yours to imagine…

A pure beauty, a wonder to wear. I invite you to view the « making of » photos and the « wearing the jewellery set » photos on Insta B!

Buccellati, the Maison well known for its particular, inimitable work of carving and engraving also has a beautiful family story yet to be discovered. Indeed, even if it established itself in 1979 on the prestigious Place Vendôme designed by Jules Hardouin Mansart, its history dates back long before. The very first workshop was created in 1740 in Milan by Contardo Buccellati. The Maison was really established later on by Mario Buccellati in 1891 with the opening of the first store in Milan in 1919.

Going against the trend, when Art Deco was at its peak, Mario Buccellati follows the Maison’s style and know-how and reinvents jewels inspired by medieval times and the Renaissance. A clever mix of inspiration, precious metals and stones, make of his creations true works of art. Mario’s talent is noticed, in particular by poet and dandy Gabriele d’Annunzio, who spoils his numerous conquests with poems, and Buccellati jewellery. His reputation soon extends beyond Italy, and in no time the royal families of Egypt and Spain start ordering jewellery sets.

In 1925, given the ever-growing success, a store is opened in Rome, Via Condotti, then in Florence. The second world war will slow down this rapid expansion. Until 1951, when Buccellati sets foot in the United States with the opening of a store on the famous 5th Avenue of New York. A success story.

In 1965, Mario Buccellati passes away, his children share the business, between Europe and the US. Luca Buccellati develops the United States, while the younger son, Gianmaria Buccellati, after 20 years aside his father, takes over the workshop and the artistic direction, at age 36, he has the ambition to conquer the East. He establishes the Maison in Hong Kong in 1970 and in Japan in 1972. His best achievement however is his establishment in Paris in 1979. He is given the opportunity to make his father’s dream come true and establish himself in « the most beautiful place in the world » and purchase by auction the ground floor of the prestigious Hotel du Rhin, private mansion formerly home of Brillat-Savarin. An auction by candle, when the candle flame expired, Buccellati’s dream came true: to take place among the leading names in French jewellery! During the renovation works, he discovers the sumptuous woodwork panelling of La Guimard, notorious actress also a muse of painter Fragonnard, captured in « La danseuse », a painting he will restore and that can still be admired today.

The Maison Buccellati continues to develop unique pieces made by exceptionnal craftsmen, keeping the family tradition of vegetal themes alive. Even though the capital has been opened to the Italian investment fund Clessidra SGR in 2013 in order to further develop the brand internationally, the artistic direction is still in the hands of Andrea Buccellati.

The lastest news of the Maison, beyond it’s presence at Baselworld, is the release of a new line «Macri Core Collection» designed by Andrea Buccellati: rings, bracelets, cuffs, pendants, in rose gold, yellow gold, white gold and black gold. The jewels are entirely hand engraved and set with diamonds. The stones are chosen for their high quality, the gold carving remains the unique signature of Buccellati jewellery, the specific handcraft capts and reflects the light creating the most beautiful sheen. An elegant repetition of patterns enhances the collection, its unique style, symbolising the exclusive know how of « hand made » work, distinctive to Buccellati.

Feel free to step into 4, Place Vendôme and admire all the fine lace-like pieces, especially these wonderfully chiselled rings which will make you look incredible in your wedding dress.

I would like to thank the Maison Buccellati, and in particular Béatrice Pinto, COO for France, as well as Tamara Vatelot, PR Agency. This encounter would not have been possible without them. Thank you also to Nicolas Mingalon and Franscesca for the beautiful photo and all the fun.