Meeting with Chopard

Jewellery Maison Chopard accepted this interview, the 5th from my series of jewellery Maison encounters, and it was an honour for me. Passion for excellence added to over 150 years of creation, accomplished craftsmanship and technical audacity have made of the Swiss Maison a reference in jewellery.

I fell in love with these rings from the « Temptations » collection, pop and colourful, set with pear-cut center stones. Displaying them on a bed of sugar-coated almonds appeared to me as something obvious: a noble and delicate temptation, a delicacy which is also a symbol for festive, important life moments. Seductive rings celebrating love, impossible to resist… Engagement rings, eternity rings, and perfect also just for a night out…

I’ve been observing these pieces very closely, the central stones are of exceptional quality. Up-right on the photo, a splendid ring in white gold set with a pear-cut aquamarine of 15,40 carats, two pink sapphires (7,70 carats) and 115 diamonds (1,89 carats). On the left, a ring in white gold set with a pear-cut Imperial Topaze of 15,23 carats, two oval tanzanites and 130 diamonds (0,91 carats). The third ring is in white gold set with 123 diamonds (1,39 carats), two topazes (4,80 carats) and one tourmaline (9,22 carats).

It’s quite simple, by the end of the phtoshoot I just longed for one thing: to keep them for myself! In particular that fabulous one with an extraordinary colour-changing aquamarine.

Everyone knows Chopard but how well do you know the brand really? This encounter will make you know more about the « Maison » you see on the most famous red-carpet celebrities, the one that creates high quality watches yet managed to keep its independance.

The origin:

The manufacture was created in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, at that time he produced watches and chronometers which became a reference in the XIXth century known through the brand L.U.C. To stand out among its many competitors, Chopard manufactured innovative and sophisticatedly decorated watches, and solicited a new clientele in Est Europe, Russia and Scandinavia. The Tsar of Russia soon became a customer. In 1913, Louis-Ulysse launched the first advertisement for the brand « Watch manufacture L.U.C L.U.Chopard, Maison founded in 1860 ». In the following years his son Paul-Louis takes over.

The business is further taken over by Karl Scheufele in 1963, a German watch and jewellery maker from Pforzheim, who merges the two manufactures under the name Chopard. He makes the brand prosper and develop worldwide, together with his wife Karin and their two children Karl-Friedrich and Caroline.

The taste for excellence, the quest for quality, the creativity, the innovation, the independence, the values of human respect, these are the two companies’ common values that lead to the creation of a true « Maison », emphasising on four essential points:

• know-how in watch and jewellery making for a flawless quality ;
• respect for tradition, family values and importance given to transmission of knowledge ;
• creativity through innovation: for example, the L.U.C or 1000 Miglia watches, the Happy Diamonds jewels and the high jewellery ;
• engagement of Chopard in charity and philantropic sponsoring.

Thanks to his talent for sales and his passion for travelling, Karl Scheufele revives Chopard and turns it into an international watch & jewellery brand. The creations are fun and original, but above all of outstanding quality. They give a new boost to innovation. The Chopard look is born, thriving on the Art Nouveau and Art Deco roots of the Maison.

In 1972 Karl Scheufele reinterprets Art Nouveau through a series of nature inspired watches. He names this Belle Époque. After that will follow Cascade and Happy Diamonds in 1976, Moonlight and Paradiso soon after. The Chopard signature has different ways of expression, at the image of the men and women it appeals to: round watches inspired by the sensual and round shapes and vivid colours of the 70s, large cuffs in onyx, malachite, corail, turquoise, mixing audacity in shape and beauty of the stones. In 1972-74 women discover the Jeans watch with its timeless denim bracelet. A wind of novelty blows on high jewellery watches. « It was my father’s idea to set diamonds on a man’s watch. He used to travel a lot throughout the Middle-East where Chopard was the first on the market. » said Caroline Scheufele.

In the 1990s, she and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele form a duo of managers like their parents before. Both of them reinterpret the family tradition: Caroline recalls the tradition of the Pforzheim goldsmith by initiating sumptuous high jewellery collections ; Karl-Friedrich recalls the watchmaking tradition of Sonvilier and founds a manufacture of high end watches in Fleurier in 1996. Supplementary partners, sharing the same office, together they write a new chapter of the Chopard storybook.

Karl-Friedrich, jeweller and watch maker, is in charge of the men’s watch division, the Fleurier manufacture and its developments, and deals with all the technological and commercial aspects of the company.

Caroline, fond of precious stones and gemmology, is in charge of creation, of high jewellery, of store management, perfumery and accessories. The family meets regularly to take all company decisions: global strategy, production and distribution issues, new designs, new creations. They value attention to detail, and a policy of doing things slowly, step by step.

Today:

Chopard has 12 subsidiaries: Germany, Austria, Spain, France, United Kingdom, Italy, United States, Latin America, Asia, Japan, Hong Kong, Malaysia, and is also present in 124 countries and has around 2 000 collaborators, manufacturing 80 000 watches and 70 000 jewels per year.

Present on 4 sites, the manufacture brings together 30 professions. Willing to reduce its dependency from suppliers, Karl Scheufele put in place an important vertical integration of its production. « We do almost everything ourselves, from boxes to bracelets. Our ideas are immediately realised by our two creative studios, for watch and jewellery ». This way, Chopard has developed its own expertise and capacity to innovate.

In Meyrin, Fleurier and Pforzheim, specialists all work together to craft watch or jewellery pieces, automatic movements or other essential components: engineers, prototypists, designers, watch makers, polishers, casters, engravers, CNC machine mechanics. In Meyrin, Chopard even produces its own gold. Pforzheim is essentially for small jewellery and Fleurier is for the L.U.C. high end watch making. For the design of stands used at exhibition fairs and store merchandising, Chopard also has its own internal decoration service. The after-sales service is also integrated, such as the marketing and communications services.

To transmit its know-how and develop innovation Chopard has had an internal training center since 1994. Each year, 25 watch & jewellery making apprentices enter the three sites for a four-year training. The Geneva « Prize for the Best Training Company 2008 » in the category « Art crafts» has rewarded Chopard for its long term comitment.

In 2010, Chopard celebrated its 150^th anniversary by the way of several high jewellery and watch collections expressing the modernity and knowledge of the Maison. A strong symbol of the past 150 years, they also represent its present.

They forecast a future based on the transmission of excellence and the independence of a jewellery Maison created to last in time, ready for the next 150 years…

Famous pieces: After the Happy Diamonds, Chopard’s history is punctuated by iconic collections, marking watch & jewellery evolution.

Happy Diamonds or free moving diamonds: In 1976 a unique piece appears in the world of jewellery. Happy Diamonds by Chopard unveils an unexpected shape for a diamond set watch. During a walk in the Black Forest, designer and decorator Ronald Kurowski at Chopard is amazed by the view of a waterfall: the drops of water sparkled and reflected the sunlight tainted by all the colours of the rainbow. This vision struck a genius idea: for the diamonds to shine their brightest, they need to be freed from their claws and move freely. Free thus happy, the first models of Happy Diamonds are for men with an onyx background. When she sees them, Karin Scheufele exclaims: « these diamonds look happier when they are free ». The watch is named Happy Diamonds, a fated name which will become famous around the world. Happy Diamonds consists of a dial under two plates of sapphire-glass between which free diamonds dance. All around this dial, their unpredictable movements exert an irresistible fascination. The Happy Diamonds watches enable the most original variations. White diamonds, black or pink diamonds, rubis, sapphires, emeralds… each gem rivalling the other in beauty and shine.

Following this watch, a whole collection was created, notably ring versions.

The clown, the master stroke of a young woman: As a teenager, Caroline Scheufele used to draw jewellery pieces. In 1985, one drawing made her enter for good the sphere of creation: a clown, belly full of diamonds and coloured stones. This fun design rejuvenated the brand. Success was immediate. It became the icon of the Maison: a remarkable entrance in the company for the boss’ daughter! Building on this success, Caroline created a complete line for Happy Diamonds, which appealed to a younger clientele.

Caroline Scheufele engages all her energy and passion into creation, store management and accessories. The years passing by, she imposed herself through the success of her collections. Caroline has established a reputation as a jeweller and has revived the family tradition. Today, Chopard, once exclusively a watchmaker, creates almost as many pieces of jewellery as it does timepieces. Fond of diamonds like her father was, Caroline Scheufele set them on the best pieces of her different collections. Whether it is her renewed designs and collection developments for Happy Diamonds or her breathtaking high jewellery Red Carpet collections, Caroline is a major designer and an insightful business woman, the first to link the Maison’s image to famous celebrities and notorious events.

Chopard’s most beautiful watch & jewellery creations:

Happy Sport: athletic feminity. Caroline Scheufele’s favourite watch, Happy Sport, represents our epoch. Unique because of the union of steel and diamonds, it has become a hit since its creation in 1993. Through time, Happy Sport and its twirl of diamonds has become an icon for Chopard, which celebrated in 2013 the 20^th anniversary of its creation by launching a new mechanical version, the new Happy Sport Medium Automatic.

Imperiale: The Empire if not nothing! In 1994 Chopard revived the splendor of the Empire. Imperiale presents a series of ultra-sophisticated watches: imposing shapes, luxurious materials, straps set with cabochons at both ends evoke the columns of the Napoleonic era.

La Strada: a road paved with diamons. In 1994, Caroline, passionate for cinema, gives her interpretation of Fellini’s film through jewellery sets and watches. The lines of la Strada evoke the 50s atmosphere as well as the roundness of feminine shape. The design of La Strada is updated in 2000.

Ice Cube: frozen design! Ice Cube marks a new page in the history of Chopard’s design. The first model is a white gold cube set with 76 square-cut diamonds. This extremely modern design has become one of the iconic collections of the Maison. Since 1999 more than 50 versions of the Ice Cube watch and over 300 versions of jewellery pieces have been created. Pendants, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings… from the simplest to the most elaborate version of the pattern.

Happy Spirit: like pebbles on water. Claiming its close relationship with Happy Diamonds, the concept of free diamonds became a timeless one, Happy Spirit puts a moving diamond in a circle surrounded by circles whose unpredictable movements evoke ricochets on water.

Golden Diamonds: invention of a new precious stone. In 2002, Caroline Scheufele imagines a new surprising stone: whatever colour, gold turns into a Golden Diamonds, a soft and mysterious stone, shaped the same way as traditional diamonds. In each Golden Diamonds creation, gold substitutes to diamonds and takes the place of honour.

Two O Ten: force of elegance. Anna Netrebko, ambassador of the Genovese Maison since 2007, chose to wear the Two O Ten, launched that year and made for dynamic women who never give up being elegant.

Imperiale, watches and jewels: In 2010, the Imperiale model is entirely redesigned. Subtle alliance of majesty and sophistication, the Imperiale is chic and timeless, following the codes which made its first success. In 2011, a new line is added, evoking a modern, natural and refined woman, a strong personnality who appreciates discreet luxury items.

Chopardissimo: the most expensive watch in history. Renowned for its jewellery watches, Chopard releases in 1997 the most precious watch in the world. 2 000 hours of work, 874 diamonds for a total of 163 carats. High jewellery audacity.

Chopard’s most beautiful high jewellery creations:

When Caroline joined the Maison, Chopard was already a reference for elegant watches set with precious stones, but not yet for high jewellery. Under her creative influence, Chopard takes the challenge.

Five collections illustrate the Maison’s strong and original high jewellery, mind blowing by the size and sophistication of its creations: Casmir, La Vie en Rose, Pushkin, Copacabana, and 709 Madison.

Casmir: Oriental preciosity. Created in 1990, Casmir evokes the splendour of Cachemire, at the foot of the Himalayas. Beyond the importance of the collection itself, Casmir marks a turning point in the evolution of the Maison. It also brings back the cabochons, forgotten by traditional jewellery. This first notable launching is followed by those of Pushkin and Copacabana. These three collections illustrate a jewellery inspired by ethnography and journeys far away.

La Vie en Rose: tender jewels. Chopard was the first Maison to bring back pink diamonds, extremely rare, especially on watches. Indeed there is only one pink diamond for 10 000 white ones. For the anecdote, Caroline Scheufele falls in love with the stone. She buys a batch of intense pink diamonds of very high quality, even though she does not yet know what to do whith them. December 23^rd of 1997, her father receives the invoice. Karl Scheufele is furious. During their Christmas meal, he is distant with his daughter and eventually says: « You had better have a good idea for these horrible stones! » Eventually, a particularly appealing High Jewellery collection is brought to life.

Pushkin: Russian heritage. In 1999, Caroline Scheufele pays tribute to Russian poet Alexander Pouchkine for the 200^th anniversary of his birth. In an original mix of gold, pearls, precious stones and polished or satined diamonds, Chopard honours the innovative spirit of the poet.

Copacabana: Brasilian princess. In 2005, the Maison gives birth to Copacabana on the most glamorous beach of Brasil. An ode to colour and to light, vibrant on suntouched skin.

709 Madison: New York, New York! Created for the launching of the flagship store of 709 Madison Avenue in November 2007, the high jewellery collection by Chopard offers a grandiose vision of the city of lights.

Animal World: the extraordinary bestiary by Chopard. At the occasion of its 150 years anniversary, faithfull to its legendary creativity and boldness, Chopard takes up a new challenge by signing a high jewellery collection of 150 unique pieces inspired by the animal world. For this special edition, the Maison rallies each of its talents and its long time experience, mixing tradition, high-end technique and documented research, pushing the boundaries of excellence and novelty. The result is an extraordinary bestiary uniting every species, from the most noble to the most unexpected, and in which prevails beauty, mystery and dream.

Red Carpet: a collection inspired by and created for the red carpet! Cannes Film Festival, with its mythical « red carpet » sets the inspiration, in 2007, for the first grand high jewellery collection, made for the celebrities when they walk up the famous red steps.

Since then, in 2008 and 2009, the Chopard workshops have reiterated the feat by giving birth to 61 then 62 exceptional pieces. For the past 10 years, Maison Chopard has been experiencing a true love story with the Cannes Film Festival. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Festival and the 10 years of partnership with the most glamorous of festivals, Caroline Scheufele imagined an exceptional collection of high jewellery: The Red Carpet Collection. 60 unique pieces inspired by the red carpet and the famous marches of the Palais des Festivals. Seen on the greatest actresses, these jewellery sets sparkles with diamonds, sapphires, and other multicoloured precious stones that make up audacious and poetic creations. In a desire to meet the most diverse expectations, the Red Carpet collection also highlights beads, opal, coral, quartz, moonstones, amethysts or tourmalines in a wide range of colours and materials. Better than anyone Caroline Scheufele knows the frenzy surrounding Cannes’ red carpet scene and the enormous media impact of the photos. She knows the celebrities, often personally, she understands how important this moment is for them and she knows what jewellery they dream of. That is why she imagined original pieces, all very different from one another, so that each VIP finds the jewellery set that best corresponds their personnality and that will make them look stunning.

La Palme d’Or: The true star of the festival! An authentic jewel redesigned by Caroline Scheufele, realised in the Geneva workshops of Chopard. The object all celebrities want, it rewards the best film of the competition. Pierre Viot, then president of the Festival, meets Caroline Scheufele in 1997. That year, the Maison inaugurates a new shop on the Croisette. Seduced by the creativity and energy of the co-president of Chopard, he asks her to redesign the Palme d’Or. Caroline’s drawing transformed the illustrious trophy into a refined high jewellery artwork.

In 2000, two “miniature palmes”, replicas of their famous elder, rewarding the awards of male and female performance, are added; later on the award for the « Camera d’Or » is also revised. The emblem of the most famous film festival in the world is now inseparable from the history of Chopard.

Since 1998, the Maison has been the official partner of the Festival, and every year it renews its love affair with cinema: adornment for the mythical “montée des marches”/red carpet, black-tie events, youth talent trophies, Palme d’Or… Chopard is present at every step of the Festival.

Chopard and stars: Chopard loves actresses, and they love Chopard. In the years, the greatest movie stars have been present: Cate Blanchett, Zhang Ziyi, Pénélope Cruz, Diane Kruger, Charlize Theron, Marion Cotillard, Emmanuelle Béart, Isabelle Huppert, Gwyneth Paltrow, Angelina Jolie, Sharon Stone, Catherine Deneuve and many others… Mythical or future celebrities, all rely on the jeweller to make them shine bright.

Led by Caroline Scheufele, Chopard was the first Maison to seize the attractive potential of Cannes celebrities. But not just as a matter of communication. With Woody Allen, Elton John or Marion Cotillard, emotion is always present. Caroline chose her friend the top model Eva Herzigova in 2006 as the face of the house. Elizabeth Taylor bought a butterfly brooch; Elton John collects the watches and jewellery; Elizabeth Hurley got married with Chopard wedding rings, Madonna wears Happy Diamonds for her albums Confessions on the Dance Floor or Hang Up. In 2006, Cate Blanchett wears a necklace that she really loves for Cannes. She convinces the costumer of the film Elizabeth: The Golden Age to come see the creations of Chopard. The latter appreciates them to the point of choosing real Chopard jewellery for the film. The existing close relationships between the brand and the stars are often a choice of heart.

The anecdote: lucky charm for the stars at the Oscars… For celebrities, Chopard has become the lucky jeweller. Indeed, in six years, seven actresses sublimated by Chopard jewellery sets have won the Oscar for a first or a supporting role: Charlize Theron, Hilary Swank, Rachel Weisz, Helen Mirren, Marion Cotillard, Kate Winslet et Penelope Cruz.

The Chopard Trophy: encouraging young talents. Since 2001, the Chopard Trophy awarded by a jury of professionals rewards two cinema newcomers, with the support of the Cannes Film Festival. Through this award, given during the Cannes Festival, Chopard affirms its support to young actors, and to the world of cinema.

A history of watches and motor racing:

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, friendly and modest, he imposed a new vision of Chopard, guided by two of his passions: high end watchmaking and vintage cars. He is nonetheless persevering. Persevering to establish the notoriety of the Maison thanks to classic car racing. Persevering to found Chopard Manufacture. His wife, Christine, provides him with indispensable support in marketing, production and finance. The philosophy of this almost secret man reveals to be as rational as it is emotional, refusing to consider things in a purely statistical way.

Classic Racing: the love of fine mechanics. Lovers of beautiful cars often have a weakness for beautiful timepieces and vice versa. In both cases, sporty elegance and performance research play the leading role. By lifting the hood, one understands what is happening in the engine. The same is true of watchmaking, this pure mechanics, whose movements are contemplated from the back of the case. Today, the enthusiast is recognisable by his watch: the technical enthusiast will choose a mechanical complication, that of car, a 1000 Miglia, a Jacky Ickx or a Grand Prix of Monaco Historique. Karl-Friedrich shares his father’s hobby. Together they gathered a collection of remarkable cars, the son with a preference for the pre-war and post-war British and German sportscars (Bentley, Ferrari, Aston Martin, Porsche … and Mini Cooper). The elegant post-war sports cars. So it was obvious that Chopard would be involved in the world of classic car racing. Beyond the Mille Miglia and the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, this commitment to Classic Racing goes back to the 1980s (and even further since Karl Scheufele’s grandfather was already passionate about fine mechanics).These include Chopard’s 1993 participation in the Alpine Rally; and in 1994 an unexpected race around the Red Square, in the streets of Moscow.

Mille Miglia: only victory is beautiful. Chopard and the Mille Miglia have become inseparable. The adventure begins with the personal passion of Karl and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele for vintage cars. The son discovers the event. Then father and son participated in 1987 with their vintage cars. A year later, Chopard became its sponsor. Thanks to this partnership, the Mille Miglia race acquired an international reputation.

Chopard also supports the 1000 Millas Sport in Argentina and the Festa Mille Miglia in Japan (run at the foot of Mount Fuji for the first time in 1990) as well as the California Mille race in the United States.

Watches in the race. Naturally, the sponsorship of this rally gave birth to 1000 Miglia timepieces. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele designed sports lines and a mechanism of extreme precision, intended to time the races. Thus was born in 1988 one of the most prized collections of Chopard. Each year, a new limited-edition model is presented. The competitors of the event receive one, with their engraved participation number.

Monaco Grand Prix Historique: « Gentlemen please start your engines! » Considered one of the most beautiful races of vintage cars, the Monaco Grand Prix Historique brings together racing cars from 1926 to 1978, classified in seven categories, on the circuit of the F1 Grand Prix. Organised in 1997 to commemorate the 700 years of the Grimaldi dynasty, it was supposed to be a one-time event. However, the enthusiasm aroused by this gathering of legendary cars prompted the prestigious Automobile Club of Monaco to renew the race every two years. In 2002, Chopard became the official partner and timekeeper of the event; the Maison also developed refined sports watches of classical inspiration, the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique models. They are awarded to the winners of each category. Passion, emotion, rigorous quality, precision: four points common to the worlds of automotive and watchmaking. In 2014 and for the first time, Chopard launches a true collection in connection with this race, composed of three tools intended to support the pilot. The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique collection consists of a chrono, an automatic model and a model with a power reserve indicator, dedicated to the most prestigious of the classic grand prix, they embody the passion of piloting and the excellence of watchmaking of Chopard.

The renaissance of manufacture. Watch companies that develop and produce their own components and watches are rare. Persuaded that the company must manufacture its own movements to honour its watchmaking past, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele convinces his father – and the family council – that the future is mechanical watches. In the utmost secrecy, the project was launched in the autumn of 1993.

Combine complexity and innovation. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele chooses the most complex way to achieve a new caliber: a micro-rotor movement for maximum flexibility, self-winding in both directions for reliability, great power reserve, And the possibility of inserting complications. The aim is to present originality in execution and in final aesthetics. The factory moved to Val-de-Travers for discretion. The caliber ASP 94 is thus initiated in 1993. However, far too noisy and not corresponding to the desired production strategy, it is abandoned. The final version is presented at Christmas 1995, in the form of twenty prototypes of the caliber L.U.C 96.01-L. Commissioning takes place in Fleurier where a modest rented premises houses the state-of-the-art production unit in 1996. As the activity grows, the building is bought and completely restored in 2000. At the beginning, a dozen women and men are engaged. Today, 145 people work in Fleurier. More than 45 million Swiss francs have been invested. In 2006, for the tenth anniversary of Chopard Manufacture, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, a great collector of timepieces, inaugurated the LUCEUM where historic watches and clocks, created between 1500 and today, rub shoulders with the models of the Chopard LUC collection.

A new history of time.

Since the beginning of the manufacturing adventure, no less than 10 families of movements (96, 97, 98, 02, 04, 05, 03, 06, 01, 63) have been imagined and produced. The LUC 98.01-L (Quattro® four-barrel patent), the LUC 02.01-L (Tourbillon) caliber, the LUC 96.01-L (the first movement manufactured by Chopard) LUC 01.06-L (High Frequency), LUC 05.01-L (All-in-One), LUC 97.03-L (Tonneau) and the LUC 03.03-L chronograph, some with new technologies developed by Chopard Technologies, The research and development entity of the Chopard group.

I am genuinely fascinated by this talented family who knew how to combine network and know-how by adorning the greatest of this world of its original and innovative creations while remaining financially autonomous.

“The Journey”, a Fairmined news:

This year at Baselworld – photos of which you may have seen on my Instagram – Chopard presented the Green Carpet collection for Cannes festival with the particularity of being made in “Fairmined” gold, like the Palme d’Or.

“The Journey” is an exciting new program through which Chopard is committed to sustainable development in the jewellery sector.

Fairmined gold is a fairtrade gold mined by artisanal farms certified as Fairmined. This label guarantees strict compliance with the rules of economic, social and environmental development during extraction. Chopard approached the South American NGO ARM (Alliance for Responsible Mining) to help the mining communities of Latin America obtain this valuable “Fairmined” certificate. As the first company in the luxury watch and jewellery sector to take action for minors, the Swiss brand contributes to improving their living conditions by providing them with social security, access to education and training while protecting their natural resources and their habitat. The certification will allow these farms to approach the market on a regular basis and to benefit from a fair price when selling gold.