Prabal Gurung creates “Living Nature” for TASAKI

For this year’s Haute Couture Week, the Japanese jewelry firm TASAKI, famous for its creations combining Akoya pearls of exceptional quality with the most beautiful diamonds, presents its latest ATLELIER jewelry collection called “Living Nature”. Created by its artistic director, the American-Nepalese designer Prabal Gurung, this collection reflects his resolutely modern vision of nature. Meet a committed and talented designer.

FROM FASHION TO FINE JEWELRY

PRABAL GURUNG, YOU ARE KNOWN AS A NEW YORK-BASED FASHION DESIGNER AND FOUNDER OF THE EPONYMOUS BRAND. TODAY YOU ARE PRESENTING YOUR COLLABORATION WITH THE JAPANESE JEWELER TASAKI. COULD YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND?

I was born in Singapore, raised in Nepal and have lived in Mumbai, London and Australia before moving to New York, where I currently reside.

I have always been fascinated by the global and multicultural world we live in, and I feel grateful to be able to work with TASAKI, a Tokyo-based brand with a growing international presence and whose values very much align with mine.

HAD YOU WORKED IN THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY BEFORE THIS? WHY DID YOU ACCEPT TASAKI’S PROPOSAL?

I had worked with jewelry brands on runway shows in the past, but no partnership had reached this level. I have always admired the quality of TASAKI pieces and when I got the opportunity to learn more about the brand’s story and its approach to production, I was blown away. I knew our partnership would be incredible.

WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL RELATIONSHIP WITH JEWELRY? WHAT PIECES DO YOU WEAR AND WHY?

I have always loved jewelry – how can one not? I will typically wear a pair of earrings – subtle ones – and whenever I have a special event, I like wearing TASAKI cufflinks and watches.

A JEWELRY COLLECTION INSPIRED BY NATURE AND THE LAST PEARL DIVING MERMAIDS

HOW DID YOU WORK WITH TASAKI ON THE ATELIER COLLECTION? WHERE DID YOUR INSPIRATION COME FROM?

I worked closely with the TASAKI team as they are true experts in fine jewelry. I also spent time in Tokyo and at the pearl farm in Nagasaki to get a better understanding of the craft and the production process. It was crucial for me to understand the brand from the roots up.

I was inspired by the story of the “Ama” pearl diving mermaids of Japan, which I learned about while visiting the pearl farm in Nagasaki. Wearing only a loincloth, these women would dive into the deep cold waters for minutes on end in search of the perfect pearl.

Having never met such women myself, looking into their story and their depiction felt dreamlike — somewhere between the real and the surreal. Shortly after learning about this, I was in London at the “Dreamer’s Awake” exhibit at the White Cube Gallery. The exhibit showcased the modern, female-led surrealist art movement and it was really powerful. Through their work, these modern artists bring about different ideas regarding the gaze on the female body, and ownership over this gaze.

That’s how it all came together – I became fascinated with the portrayal of these pearl diving mermaids, but looking at them through a modern, feminist lens turned them into a symbol of self-expression, resistance and irony, raising the question of what the pursuit of beauty really means.

YOU SEEM TO BE GENERALLY INSPIRED BY AN ETHNIC STYLE. IS THIS A TRIBUTE TO YOUR NEPALESE ORIGINS?

I will always and forever be inspired by Nepal. It is part of who I am, where I come from, and I have profound respect and appreciation for Nepalese culture.

While it was not my primary source of inspiration for these pieces, it will always be there however subtle or obvious.

A COMMITTED DESIGNER WITH HIS OWN VISION OF MODERN LUXURY

WHAT IS YOUR PHILOSOPHY REGARDING MODERN LUXURY?

Modern luxury can have so many definitions. It really depends on what one’s idea of luxury is. In reference to jewelry, I do believe it is about the craft, the quality, the way in which each piece is made. To then modernize it is a matter of introducing newness, taking a bit of an unexpected approach, and giving it edge. It can still be timeless, but it creates interest.

ACCORDING TO YOU, HOW DO THE NEW GENERATIONS RELATE TO THE CONCEPT OF LUXURY?

So much of what brands do, what they’re proud of, is shared through social media. For them to be shown the backstory of how something is made is a great way to educate. TASAKI does this well by taking those who engage with them on social media to the pearl farms in Nagasaki or showing the intricate handwork that goes into each piece. I would also say that the younger generations relate when what they see is wearable. TASAKI collections are well thought out and offer a range of pieces at varying price points to allow for it to be more accessible to a wider audience.

YOU ARE POLITICALLY COMMITTED TO DEFENDING MINORITIES AND WOMEN’S RIGHTS. DO YOU THINK IT IS ESSENTIAL FOR AN ARTIST TO DEFEND HIS/HER OPINIONS? DO YOU FEEL THAT POLITICAL ENGAGEMENT GOES HAND IN HAND WITH FAME?

There will be those in our industry and beyond who are very vocal and others who prefer not to be. Personally, I feel strongly about engaging and encouraging conversation. Change is so important at this time in our world and while I may not be able to make a seismic shift happen overnight, I still want to do what I can. There’s too much to be done to sit idly, that’s just not me.

WILL WE HAVE THE PLEASURE OF SEEING YOU MORE IN PARIS IN THE NEAR FUTURE?

I would hope so. I really love being here and every time I have a chance to spend time here, I fall more in love with the city. I also love that TASAKI has a home base here at the Ritz. Everyone has been so welcoming and I look forward to my return.

Another successful fine jewelry collection for TASAKI, once again combining fashion with preciousness.