Written by Bérengère Treussard - Monday, June 17, 2024
The world of jewellery is filled with technical terms that may not always be familiar to the general public. For vintage jewellery enthusiasts, navigating through auction catalogues can be quite daunting. But fear not, as we present here a comprehensive yet handy glossary of key terms to help you navigate through it all.
Following Art Nouveau, in the early years of the 20th century, natural forms synthesized, heralding the geometric shapes of the 1920s.
Jewellers drew inspiration from Empire and Louis XVI styles to create sets where platinum often appeared, allowing for finer and more flexible mounts.
Black and white, onyx and crystal introduced bolder contrasts, while the use of lapis lazuli, jade, and coral gave rise to colourful jewellery. It was a period where designers enjoyed combining matte and glossy, transparent and opaque elements in jewellery featuring highly contrasting colours, materials, and themes.
Geometric shapes delineated sharp and distinct planes, favoured by new stone cuts: baguette, trapezoidal...
For this period, the collection includes works by Georges Fouquet, who created jewellery designed by his son Jean, as well as pieces by the painter André Léveillé, the poster artist Cassandre, and the architect Eric Bagge.
The Boucheron brand is represented by a large brooch made of onyx and coral, presented at the 1925 International Exhibition.
The polychromy of the 1920s gave way to the monochrome of 1930s jewellery, represented by the works of Raymond Templier or Jean Després.
Excerpt from "The Jewellery Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris," Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris 2002.
In 1895, Siegfried Bing, a merchant of Oriental objects, opened in Paris a gallery of contemporary decorative art which he named Art Nouveau. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs holds the largest collection of French Art Nouveau jewellery.
This brief period in decorative art represents a significant era in the field of jewellery, particularly in Paris. The collection includes a substantial number of jewellery pieces by René Lalique, as well as significant works from prominent jeweller families of the late 19th century: Falize, Fouquet, Vever, and Lucien Gaillard, alongside lesser-known jewellers such as Edmond Henri Becker, Charles Boutet de Monvel, Paul Follot, and many others.
Certain types of jewellery are particularly well-represented, such as combs, showcasing a diverse range of materials (horn, ivory, wood), reflecting the richness of themes dear to Art Nouveau: women, flora, and fauna.
Excerpt from "The Jewellery Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris", Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris 2002.
A removable ring, usually oval-shaped, designed to support a pendant, medal, or drop. The chain is then threaded through the bail to hang around the neck.
A bangle can take the form of a bracelet or a ring. A piece of jewellery is termed a bangle when its diameter is uniform. In the case of bracelets, it is referred to as a "hinged bangle" when it is oval-shaped and opens on a hinge, for instance.
A setting which holds a gemstone in place by securing it with multiple prongs. It forms the head of a ring where the gemstone is placed.
Based on Evelyne Possémé, Bijouterie-Joaillerie, Editions Massin, Paris 1995.
A specific cut of a rough diamond with 57 or 58 facets, ensuring maximum brilliance of the stone.
A gemstone cut into a drop shape with triangular facets. For diamond cutters and lapidaries, the briolette is the most complex form and cut to achieve.
The four criteria used to assess the quality of a diamond: colour, carat weight, clarity, and cut. For more information, check out
A cabochon is a polished, unfaceted stone forming a dome. Cabochon stones are a true ode to gentle and generous femininity, perhaps the first cut used by humans.
Hardstone Cameo, Shell Cameo
Bas-relief sculptures carved in hard stones, often depicting busts of figures. Cameos utilise different coloured layers of certain ornamental stones, such as onyx, sardonyx, carnelian, agate, or chalcedony.
Cameos were highly prized by the Greeks and Romans. Forgotten throughout the Middle Ages, the fashion and technique were revived with great splendour during the Renaissance and neoclassical period.
Emperor Napoleon I, a great lover of cameos and intaglios, established a special school. In 1805, he founded a Rome Prize for engravers in hard stones, similar to that reserved for painters, sculptors, and architects. The cameo's vogue was replaced in the 1880s by that of the medal.
Very popular throughout the 19th century, shell cameos are distinguished by their slightly convex profile. They are carved from shells: softer, easier to work with, and less expensive
.Based on Evelyne Possémé, Bijouterie-Joaillerie, Editions Massin, Paris 1995.
It is the unit of mass used worldwide for measuring gemstones. 1 carat = 0.2 grams. The term comes from the carob seed, which weighs the same.
This organic calcareous substance is secreted by small marine polyps. The variety used in jewellery is Corallium rubrum. In the 19th century, it was sourced from the Mediterranean, with Naples and Genoa in Italy, and Marseille in France, being the main production and processing centres. Coral comes in shades ranging from pale pink to deep red, with the latter being most sought after. It can be used in beads, half-beads, faceted beads, and is also carved into cameos, much like malachite, jade, citrine, or topaz.
Based on Evelyne Possémé, Bijouterie-Joaillerie, Editions Massin, Paris 1995.
It is the top part of a faceted stone.
The most common form of the old brilliant (or baroque) cut. It is a rectangular or square shape with rounded corners, featuring 17 facets on top and 17 below. Famous diamonds like The Hope or The Regent are cut in cushion shapes.
Refers to the series of operations that transform a rough diamond into a polished gemstone ready to be set in jewellery. These operations include sawing or cleaving, which separates the rough diamond into smaller pieces, and bruting, which gives the diamond its general shape. Subsequent steps involve faceting and final polishing to maximize the diamond's brilliance.
The "brilliant" cut is among the most popular, characterised by its exceptional sparkle. Other common cuts include marquise or navette, cabochon, pear, emerald cut, and cushion. Each cut is carefully chosen, taking into account factors such as the diamond's clarity and any inclusions present.
Diamond is the hardest stone known to humanity, capable of being scratched only by another diamond. This discovery allowed lapidaries to refine gem-cutting techniques and unlock their full brilliance.
Until the 14th century, gemstones were roughly polished into cabochons or left in their natural form: hexagonal for emeralds and octahedral for diamonds.
In the 14th century, diamonds were often cut into table shapes with four bevels. Around 1476, Louis de Berkem introduced the first regular diamond cut with 33 facets (32 surrounding a "table"), known as the single cut or unrecut cut.
At the end of the 16th century, the Venetian Vincent Peruzzi created the first brilliant-cut diamond with 56 facets, a cut that remains largely unchanged today.
In the 17th century, Cardinal Mazarin facilitated the creation of the rose cut (without a table, with facets covering the entire surface of the stone).
Alongside these classic forms, numerous fancy cuts with curved lines – marquise, pear, oval, heart, crescent moon – or straight and angular cuts – emerald, baguette, trapezoid, triangle, tricorn – coexist, some of which were invented in the 20th century.
Based on Evelyne Possémé, Bijouterie-Joaillerie, Editions Massin, Paris 1995.
Today, lapidaries are capable of cutting almost any shape, including the most unconventional or whimsical designs.
Characterised by its rectangular shape, the emerald cut is often used for emeralds, as its name suggests, as well as for three other precious stones.
Opaque enamel, cloisonné enamel on gold, champlevé enamel, translucent openwork enamel.
Enamel is a fusible glass composed of silica and coloured by metallic oxides. The technique originated in the Orient, Phoenicia, and Egypt in the first half of the second millennium BCE. A mixture of lead and tin is used to opacify the enamel. This distinguishes transparent enamels, which reveal the base, from translucent enamels, where the base is veiled, and opaque enamels that entirely mask the support. Powdered enamel is applied in multiple layers into prepared cavities, with firing in between each layer. Metals used as supports are primarily gold, silver, or copper. Once fired, the enamel is domed; it can then be polished or cabochon-cut like a stone.
Based on Evelyne Possémé, Bijouterie-Joaillerie, Editions Massin, Paris 1995.
Filigree is an ancient technique involving the formation of patterns using very fine metal wires.
Fluting refers to a decorative motif characterised by elongated pods or ovals arranged vertically or horizontally in relief or as hollowed-out forms.
It is commonly used in the decoration of silverware, including jewellery and decorative vases.
A precious stone – from the Latin gemme, meaning "bud." Gemmology is the study of certain categories of stones such as precious, semi-precious, and ornamental stones.
A goldsmith or silversmith is an artisan skilled in crafting utilitarian objects from precious metals (gold and silver, respectively), including candlesticks, cutlery, and dishes.
The grain is a small, rounded piece of metal that the setter folds over the stone, serving as a claw to hold the stone in place.
A hallmark is a metal rod engraved with a motif at one end, which is then stamped onto the metal using a hammer.
When the hallmark bears the signature of the jeweller or jewellery manufacturer who crafted the piece, it is referred to as a maker's mark. This is why jewellery from the Place Vendôme wasn't signed; instead, it bore the manufacturer's mark. Nowadays, jewellery designers can be identified through the maker’s mark.
A hallmark serves to guarantee the quality of the metal used, indicating its purity such as 18K gold or 925 silver.
The term hardness applies to both metals and stones. The Mohs scale indicates the hardness of stones, with diamond (10) being the hardest. Some stones are not used in jewellery because they are not hard enough to withstand impacts.
Hardness also refers to a metal's resistance to penetration by a harder substance, determining its ability to resist scratches and marks from other materials. Metals generally have lower hardness compared to stones.
An inclusion is a foreign body trapped within a mineral during its formation. Gemstones without inclusions are preferred, but some stone collectors actually prefer gemstones with inclusions.
An intaglio is a stone carved in relief, originally used as a seal or stamp.
In an emerald, frost-like inclusions form a garden.
The jarretière ring features a simple band adorned with three aligned stones. It gained popularity as an engagement ring during the Art Deco period in the 1920s.
Etymologically, the French word bijou originates from the Breton word bizou.
This term, like joyau (jewel), contains the word joie (joy). In English, a bijou is typically called a piece of jewellery, whilst a jewel implies that the piece of jewellery is made with precious stones. In Italian, gioiello comes from the Latin gaudium, meaning play or enjoyment in a broad sense.
The object thus designated, in all three languages, is accompanied by a state of mind combining pleasure with play. This is what distinguishes the bijou, a decorative object laden with intention (religious, magical, signifying status or feelings), from the accessory, which is the decorative complement to clothing.
The term is also commonly used to refer to an element of adornment, reflecting a stylistic or localized entity. It is also the word used figuratively to symbolize perfection, or perfect finish. It evokes affection, maternal and protective tenderness, and applies to small, delicate, refined beings or things.
According to the International Dictionary of Jewellery, edited by Marguerite de Cerval, Editions du Regard, Paris 1998.
The distinction between “bijouterie” and “joaillerie” present in French is not made in English. Instead, both are collectively referred to as “jewellery”.
“Bijouterie” primarily focuses on metalwork, while “joaillerie” places gemstones at the heart of its craft.
“Joaillerie” began to emerge in the 17th century. Precious, semi-precious, and ornamental stones have always enhanced adornments, but “joaillerie” is a technique based on exploiting the physical properties of stones, especially diamonds. The development of jewellery is linked to the richness of supply but also to the improvement of cutting techniques.
Based on Evelyne Possémé, Bijouterie-Joaillerie, Editions Massin, Paris 1995.
The term "karat" is commonly used in most English-speaking countries to denote the purity of gold in jewellery. It indicates the proportion of pure gold present in a piece. Pure gold is designated as 24 karats (24K), but it's too soft for practical use in jewellery making. Therefore, 18 karat gold (18K) is often preferred, which is an alloy containing 18 parts gold out of 24 (or 75% pure gold, i.e., gold 750/1000).
For yellow gold, the alloy typically consists of 75% pure gold, 12.5% silver, and 12.5% copper.
White gold is composed of 75% pure gold and 25% silver, while rose gold maintains the 75% pure gold content but has slightly more copper than silver. This variation in proportions results in rose gold exhibiting hues ranging from beige to red. Beige gold, a trademark of Chanel, falls within this category.
It's worth noting the existence of 9 karat gold (9K), denoted as 375/1000, indicating a gold content of only 37.5%. It's often less expensive due to its lower purity level.
A lapidary is a skilled craftsman responsible for cutting, polishing, or engraving gemstones, including precious, semi-precious, and hard stones (although diamond cutting is typically performed by specialized diamond cutters using specific equipment).
The marquise ring showcases an elongated oval-shaped setting mounted on a delicate openwork basket. This style has its origins dating back to the 18th century. Additionally, a diamond cut in a navette shape is also commonly known as a marquise cut.
The Mohs scale is a rating system ranging from 1 to 10 used to assess the hardness of minerals. The principle is straightforward: a stone is considered harder than another if it can scratch it. Diamond, which ranks as a 10 on the Mohs scale, is the hardest mineral.
The term "old cut" refers to a traditional cutting style of a diamond characterised by fewer facets compared to the modern brilliant cut. While it exudes a unique charm, diamonds cut in this style may exhibit slightly less brilliance than those cut in the brilliant style.
The soft iridescence known as "orient" in pearls is produced by refracted light within the pearl and reflected on successive layers, evoking the gentle glow of the rising sun.
The pavé setting is a technique where small stones are closely packed together and secured by tiny grains. This setting is commonly used with small-diameter stones on either flat or curved surfaces.
It is the bottom part of a stone. It can be pointed or flat depending on the shape of the stone.
The carat is divided into 100 points. Therefore, a 0.5 carat diamond is equivalent to 50 points.
The term "precious" is associated with notions of beauty and rarity. It is typically reserved for diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. Both sapphire and ruby belong to the corundum group. While diamonds are predominantly white with varying shades, they also come in "fancy" colours such as green, pink, blue, purple, brown, and yellow. Similarly, sapphires are not limited to blue; they can also be colourless, pink, orange, yellow, green, violet, or black.
Based on Evelyne Possémé, Bijouterie-Joaillerie, Editions Massin, Paris 1995.
Prongs serve to securely hold the stone in place. They are metal rods delicately folded over the stone by the setter to firmly attach it to the jewellery piece. This setting style effectively enhances the stone.
An antique diamond cut characterized by facets on the top and a flat bottom. Unlike modern cuts, there is minimal refraction and reflection of light from within the diamond. Instead, its brilliance is derived from the highly reflective facets, owing to the diamond's extreme hardness. This type of diamond is aptly named for its resemblance to the petals of a rose.
Semi-precious stones include amethyst, opal, topaz, tourmaline, chrysoberyl, aquamarine, etc.
French law prohibits the use of this term in commerce.
The process in which a specialized worker, known as a setter, secures stones onto a metal mount. This involves using various tools such as chisels and reamers to work on the mount, which is prepared and pierced by the jeweller.
The most commonly used metal for diamond setting is silver, often plated with gold. However, since the early 20th century, platinum has become preferred due to its durability, resistance, and flexibility.
In the 1940s, jewellers commonly mounted coloured gemstones in gold.
Based on Evelyne Possémé, Bijouterie-Joaillerie, Editions Massin, Paris 1995.
There are several types of settings, including claw setting, bezel setting, grain setting, pave setting, snow setting, etc.
The tank ring or tank bracelet are iconic pieces from the 1940s-50s era. This trend emerged in the early 1940s, deriving its name from that turbulent period. These significant, voluminous pieces feature geometric lines and a few stones which have become quite rare. They allowed for maximum gold presence on the hand or wrist, proving to be quite practical during wartime.
A ring with a double setting designed to hold two juxtaposed twin stones, often mounted in an S or figure-eight shape. The "Toi et Moi" style was highly fashionable in the 1880s. The stones can be identical or different, for example, a diamond and a pearl.