Meet Tajan, Expert In René Boivin

The Maison Boivin is often in the spotlight at Tajan. Once again, eleven pieces by René Boivin will be presented during the auction on June 20th and 21st 2017 for the Paris Precious Week. This year, Tajan's deluxe sales feature bronze sculpture (Rodin), paintings (Chagall, Picasso, Renoir, Pierre Soulages), drawings (Leonardo da Vinci), watches, exceptional furniture and of course, exceptional jewelry.

We could not resist the temptation to question Tajan’s jewelry expert, Monsieur Jean-Norbert Salit, who has graciously agreed to answer a few question about this auction, which also features extraordinary gemstones.

Maison Tajan, Expert in René Boivin Jewelry

Gathering 11 René Boivin pieces in one auction is quite the achievement, right Mr. Salit?

These are in fact 11 pieces from a highly sought-after jeweler because the Maison René Boivin has become a sort of legend in the jewelry world. The Tajan Auction House has already put 240 Boivin pieces up for auction since 2005. We are very pleased with the collectors who placed their trust in us to sell their favorite pieces and in particular the 8 collectors who entrusted us with the 11 pieces up for auction, which will be held on June 20th and 21st.

You are the undisputed expert in René Boivin jewelry, has Tajan become the natural expert on this renowned Maison?

As the saying goes, we should render unto Caesar what is Caesar’s; I was very lucky to work alongside Françoise Cailles for the past 20 years and to be able to develop with her, in large part, a book which is the reference for this Maison. The book on René Boivin was published in 1992 and is now almost impossible to acquire. From this fruitful partnership, we have retained the interest of René Boivin collectors.

Which other designer would you want collectors to consider you an expert on?

Suzanne Belperron without hesitation! What is fascinating about our profession is that much of the jewelry made in the first half of the 20th century was unsigned. Madame Boivin indeed considered that all would recognize her style! Even though authentication is a tricky thing, luckily we have clues like the names of the manufacturers listed in the 1992 book to help us authenticate jewelry. I admit that I have been very lucky in my career to have seen so many exceptional pieces.

How do you believe the myth behind the Maison Boivin was created?

The creation of a myth is rather complex. How can you imagine the fate of this elitist Maison that, for 80 years, would welcome customers on the first floor of the Avenue de L'Opéra; take orders in a small notebook without specifying either the delivery time or a description of the desired piece? A Maison that has, nonetheless, undoubtedly left an imprint and a unique style in the history of jewelry and which today enjoys exceptional recognition in the art world.

We must also pay tribute to Françoise Cailles who participated in the myth, and her meeting with the last owner, Jacques Bernard. He knew how to preserve the DNA of the company while bringing his vision and thus indirectly transmitted this beautiful historical heritage by letting us write the book.

The myth is also created by constantly renewed inventiveness. In each period there are forms which have been in the forefront of a movement and which are still sources of inspiration for many. Unlike the current trends, it's not about giving the illusion of creating a line that wreaks havoc in a very short period of time. There is no miracle recipe for creating jewelry whose success goes beyond trends.

The Maison Boivin was shaped over 80 years of design and creation without giving in to the dictates of marketing and by constantly renewing itself.

Maison Tajan, Jewelry as an Art Object

What makes René Boivin jewelry unique?

René Boivin jewelry is unique because it is timeless. It stands outside trends, fashion and references.

For purists, jewelry is the art of holding the 4 precious stones together. Using diamonds and the 3 gemstones (ruby, sapphire and emerald) as key elements. In the 19th century, gold jewelry was distinguished from precious stone jewelry.

We do not refer to René Boivin jewelry as fine jewelry, but rather as extremely decorative and ornamental jewelry with a very fine architecture, enriched creativity, sculpture jewelry, in a way. A jewelry as an art piece. Transformable, always innovative jewelry.

In the René Boivin jewelry, there is much more affect than transgression. Nature is stylized. Like René Lalique, even if it was very new, it was perfectly integrated at René Boivin. Emphasizing the color of the gems rather than their high quality. This is part of French culture, we make things precious without necessarily using very expensive stones and we play on color variations.

For example, the iconic horse radish broche, which is extremely modern for the time.

There is also a rare, tailor-made production, nourished by the imagination and clients who evolve in a world more intellectual than ours.

René, Suzanne and Jacques Boivin knew how to say no to the dictature of fashion: they did not copy anyone, they stand outside trends, they did not use models of the time to emphasize design and its development and this is why their creations are so unique.

Tell us about one of Boivin's pieces at auction during the Paris Precious Week held June 20th and 21st?

Apart from any consideration on value, the highly innovative articulated ring is another facet of the Maison Boivin: it was designed for the owner only. Only she knows that the ring is articulated. On the ring two large moldings in yellow gold border a rectangular diamond with degree cut corners. The stone is beautiful and accompanied by a certificate from the LFG Laboratory stating: color N-R, clarity VS2. This 1970s ring comes across as high costume jewelry and is a game of discretion and intimacy for which its high luxury value is only perceived by its owner (cf. MEDUSA Exhibition); the design manages to make a large stone visible without ostentation.

The Maison Boivin is in this spirit, it loves hidden games, like the mythical chameleon brooch by Jacques Bernard, where the tongue is used to rotate its body and make it change color. It's modern and timeless at the same time.

For me, the pieces created at Madame Boivin and Monsieur Jacques Bernard are unforgettable.

Is there a future for René Boivin collectors?

Most certainly! The future is linked to the accident, a pleasant surprise created by the arrival of lesser-known jewelry on the market. The discretion of this Maison, who did not show off their designs, still has many good surprises in store for us and some pretty treasures that I really hope to still discover. Today there is a history of collectors but there is also a future in the discovery of new pieces around a growing interest of wearing old jewelry, bearers of the history of their owners but also of the history of a mythical Maison.

Historically, the 1987 Windsor sale is for me the turning point of the possesive nature of collectors and this madness which is: "I want a piece of this identity!" Signed designer jewelry revealed itself in a different market than anonymous jewelry: the art market. With the Tajan Auction House we try to elevate jewelry to an art object.

You also have four exceptional stones up for auction, what more can you tell us about these?

At Tajan we are also used to selling exceptional stones. The intra-professional recognition is formalized through one or two large laboratories whose authority is indisputable; we sell stones with certificates.

We are going to present a 9 carat old mine cushion cut diamond accompanied by a certificate from the SSEF laboratory stating: natural Fancy Light Yellow Color, VS1 Clarity, estimated at 50-60,000 Euros. I’m emphasizing the antique cut for a 9-carat diamond, which guarantees that this elegant colored diamond is one that we can no longer find today. More details HERE.

Also presented is a flawless diamond marquise of type 2A (1% of the stones in the world) in the Golconda style (carbon content close to 100%), a rather exceptional stone of 15.73 carats. The SSEF laboratory certificate states an L Color, flawless under the loop, of Type IIa. Type 2a diamonds are also found in Brazil, South Africa and Lesotho. This diamond is estimated between 200 - 250,000 euros. More details HERE.

A ring dating from the 1900s adorned with a magnificent Burmese sapphire of 12 carats, allows us to to estimate the date of extraction from approximately the same time period. This Louis XV neo-style ring was inspired from Empress Eugenie's attraction to the decorative arts, perfectly illustrating this time period of and for French excellence. The stone has two certificates, one from SSEF and the other from GUBELIN, both of which state the Burmese origin of the stone and the absence of heat treatment. This ring is estimated between 320 - 400,000 euros.

And finally a Van Cleef & Arpels ring dating from the 70s, adorned with an oval pigeon blood ruby of 2.63 carats, very rare for a stone of this size. The ruby is accompanied by an SSEF Laboratory certificat stating the Burmese origin and the color "Pigeon Blood" which is extremely rare. The ring is estimated between 140 - 180,000 euros.

Thank you Jean-Norbert Salit for this very pleasant interview which reveals a great love for jewelry, a passion for creators and the constantly renewed desire to elevate jewelry to the rank of a work of art; an undeniable sentiment of jewelry culture that is hailed.

For my part, I fell in love with this exceptional diamond necklace which can also be worn as a charming bracelet with essentially pear shaped diamonds in D-E color from the 70s; a pure marvel.

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