Written by Julie de Los Rios - Tuesday, June 7, 2022
From March 30th to April 5th, walking the aisles of Geneva's Palexpo almost felt festive. And for good reason! After the first two
All of them? Yes, all of them! Manufacturers have finally understood that the female condition is changing. Although the first wristwatches were created for women (Breguet or Chaumet, for example, have some dating from the early nineteenth century), they were long reduced to small floral or pearly designs... a little sappy. The working girls could not relate, on a daily basis, to these jeweled watches that they saved for special events.
Fortunately for them, some brands known for their avant-garde spirit had opened the way by creating pieces without frills and easier to wear with jeans. For instance, Chanel, which launched its now mythical J12 in 2000. With its sleek design and iconoclastic material – high-tech ceramic – it was highly successful and quickly sold out. In 2022, the global icon is reinterpreted, equipped with a diamond flying tourbillon or enriched with baguette diamonds. Our favorite? The J12 Black Star, entirely set with ceramic baguettes, in a limited edition of 12 pieces.
The good news is that the non-binary trend is spreading to the world of fine watches, and even the most classic manufacturers are getting in on the act. The distinction between men's and women's collections seems to be a thing of the past. One example is Zenith, which honors its mythical El Primero caliber in the Chronomaster Sport and the Chronomaster Open. These sumptuous chronographs are featured in a campaign where the heroes are a woman and a man. No, she's not stealing her man's watch... it's hers!
After five years of collaboration, Hublot and Richard Orlinski are also playing the "no gender" card with a unisex watch, the Classic Fusion Orlinski, whose metal bracelet features the facets of the French artist's sculptures.
Among 2022’s other novelties, we can bet that the simple look of the Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante will also satisfy the businesswomen that travel the world. This minimalist watch is nevertheless the first of its kind, thanks to a discreet complication that is incredibly easy to use. Checking the time in two different time zones simultaneously has never been so effortless!
Globetrotters are also spoiled with Hermès. The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur watch offers a unique reading of different time zones in an original setting – a fantasy map imagined by Jérôme Colliard for the "Planisphere of an equestrian world" silk scarf. And to fit all wrists, this marvel is available in two sizes. Platinum case and grade 5 titanium bezel for the 41mm version, and steel case for the 38mm version.
Adopting the no-gender approach means breaking free from all gender stereotypes. Why should precious stones be for women only? Why can't a man wear his watch like a piece of jewelry? To reconcile everyone, Chopard is revisiting its Happy Sport with a bold version. With a full-on pink gold look, a 40mm case and mobile diamonds, this chronograph is made for those who wear their watch as an extravagant accessory.
For Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master, a watch designed for sailors and skippers, is dressed up with a bezel set with multicolored sapphires. The case is made of white gold and is also enriched with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds.
As surprising as it may seem, Vacheron Constantin is reaching out to new generations by drawing inspiration from its archives. The brand is reimagining its mythical "Jumbo" from 1977. Dressed in gold, this is the 222 that millennials are already snapping up.
Likewise, we love the design and elegance of Piaget’s new steel Polo Date, with its crafted black background and its 70s design that suits all wrists.
Finally, in a much more classic but nevertheless gender-neutral style, A. Lange & Söhne’s new Grande Lange 1 is reinterpreted with pink gold on a grey background, in a 41-mm case, with a thickness of only 8.2 mm for the off-center time display to suit all wrists with elegance and sophistication.
In short, you get it: the time has finally come for diversity in the luxury watchmaking industry – to the delight of new generations who swear by gender neutrality and inclusiveness.