Men's watches: our 15 top picks from Watches & Wonders

Fairs Men Trends Watches

Written by Julie de Los Rios - Thursday, September 21, 2023

Watches and Wonders, the world's largest watch fair, set a new record. Between 27 March and 2 April in Geneva, some 43,000 visitors wandered the aisles to discover new products from the land of timepieces. There's no doubt about it: the 48 exhibiting watch brands gave their all to create surprise and arouse desire. But what were the highlights among new men's watches?

Rolex’s new Perpetual 1908 collection

Rolex set the tone and surprised us all with its bold and colourful variations on its emblematic models. In addition to celebrating the Daytona’s 60th anniversary and the Explorer’s 70th anniversary, the brand is launching a new collection called Perpetual 1908. This future icon is elegant, classic and contemporary, a perfect illustration of the mastery of know-how and the perpetual quest for excellence which define the studios. Crafted in yellow or white gold, the case features a transparent back to reveal the technical sophistication and decoration of the movement. As for the dial, the neo-dandy is torn between black and white.

Piaget’s limited-edition obsidian

Let’s now take a look at Piaget. The brand is honouring one of its signatures – its colourful dials with ornamental stones. Among the new models, the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian stays true to this tradition. Obsidian – a volcanic rock – has a natural iridescence thanks to inclusions formed by drops of mineral-rich liquid sulphide trapped in the stone during solidification. These inclusions make each stone unique. In a white gold case containing a perpetual calendar – a complication that automatically displays the day of the month, the month and the position of the year in the leap-year cycle – a bezel set with dark blue sapphires beautifies the obsidian. As part of a limited edition of 18 pieces, this is a collector's item. Would you maybe prefer the green reflections of the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in pink gold?

Black dials for Frédérique Constant, Zenith and Chopard

Frédérique Constant, which is celebrating its 35th anniversary this year, is part of Watches and Wonders for the first time. To mark the occasion, the Swiss brand is unveiling a precious timepiece in a limited series of 150. The new Classic Tourbillon Manufacture features the FC-980 tourbillon movement, entirely developed and assembled in-house, delivering a hypnotic spectacle at 6 o'clock, dramatised by a black dial.

Zenith is giving us black too as it unveils the new face of its emblematic watch, ultramodern in black ceramic. The brand also reminds us that its founder was a true visionary when he registered the name "Pilote" in French in 1888 (1904 in English).

Some more black with Chopard’s Mille Miglia GTS Chrono. The brand remains on its path towards sustainable luxury and introduces Lucent Steel, a material made from 80% recycled steel that reduces production-related emissions by 30%.

The golden ratio holds a special place at Jaeger-Lecoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre is marking 2023 with the golden ratio. This magical and mysterious number, which has an approximate value of 1.618, has determined the design of the iconic Reverso. This year, the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 perfectly illustrates the brand’s savoir-faire. On one hand, the mechanics with the multi-axial tourbillon, and on the other, the fineness of the Métiers Rares, particularly demonstrated in the skeletonization work.

Icons reinvented by Cartier, Tudor and Bell & Ross

Watchmakers never tire of revisiting their classics – an exercise that get collectors excited. Cartier is showcasing new interpretations of its Pasha, Baignoire, Panthère and Santos models. Among our favourites is the Tank Normale, the closest to the original 1917 model.

At Tudor, the new Black Bay is a technical and aesthetic evolution of its emblematic diver's watch with a burgundy bezel, launched in 2012. Now Master Chronometer certified by METAS, it features a 41mm case with a refined profile. We've found the perfect balance among the new versions of the Black Bay in steel, offered, among other things, in a 36mm diameter – perfect for all wrists. To share with your better half...

A newcomer to Watches and Wonders, Bell & Ross is presenting 3 new models, including a city watch, the BR 05 Green Gold. With its full gold look, it evokes a bar of gold, the brilliance of which is enhanced by the sunray dial whose reflections oscillate from neon green to bottle green.

Sci-fi and the technical prowess of watchmaking

What would the world of fine watchmaking be without its feats? Constantly pushing the limits, taking on new challenges, defying technology...

This year, Hublot has pulled off a master stroke with the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon. At just 68 grams (including 26 grams for the carbon fibre and Texalium bracelet), it's a featherweight for a concentrate of technology!

Patek Philippe presents 17 new models, including 5 minute repeaters – a feature that strikes the hours.

Vacheron Constantin is showcasing one of its favourite complications, the retrograde. As a reminder, a display is retrograde when the indicator does not complete a full revolution of the dial, but instead returns to its starting point and begins running again after completing its measurement segment. The finest example being the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date, which features this complication twice on its dial.

Just like mad scientists, watchmakers also invite us to embark on an adventure. These extraordinary, wrist-sized explorations seem inspired by the finest science-fiction scenarios.

While Roger Dubuis plunges us into its Hyperlife, Ulysse Nardin continues its adventure with the Freak One, a journey initiated in 2001 with the presentation of its watch without hands, dial or crown – but equipped with a module resembling a rocket.

Finally, Tag Heuer is celebrating the 60th anniversary of its emblematic Carrera with a short film starring Ryan Gosling.

In short, you get it: 2023 will be marked by creativity and boldness, whilst preserving the sophistication that is the essence of watchmaking.

You can also read our articles: Women's watches: our top 15 picks from Watches & Wonders and It’s time for sautoirs! A trend revealed at Watches & Wonders.