Celebrated by Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and more recently Rihanna, as symbols of glamour and eternity, diamonds are still a woman’s (and a man’s!) best friend. But beware – not just any diamond! We’re talking natural stones dear to the Natural Diamond Council here, of course. These wonders of nature, which can take the form of a ring, a necklace or a bracelet, enhanced by a gold or platinum setting, offer several advantages.
Each stone is unique, durable, traceable and can thus be passed on to future generations… Easier to wear than coloured stones and timeless, diamonds will accompany a woman throughout her life. They fascinate fashionistas, who use them to elevate an outfit or make an evening gown shine. They will always be the most beautiful gift to declare one's love. But above all, they are an infinite source of inspiration for jewellers, who unleash their creativity stimulated by their radiance. While they are a must-have in the windows of the prestigious Place Vendôme brands, diamonds are also being reinvented by a new generation of designers.
Among them are Valérie Messika and her mobile diamonds, Caroline Gaspard who, for her brand Akillis, gives them a rock aura with a touch of rebelliousness, Karine Chedid who celebrates atypical stones such as salt & pepper diamonds, Seijna which is surfing the layering trend – a way of wearing jewellery pieces combined – or La Garçonne which has made closed-set diamonds its emblem, emphasised in a refined setting. But the leader of these trend-setting jewellers is unquestionably Marie Caribou, better known under the name of her brand Marie Mas, who offers vibrant, modern and optimistic jewellery. Enough to seduce it girls around the world!
To help you make your choice, we have selected 10 jewellery brands which, each in their own way, successfully rose to the challenge of reinterpreting the leading gemstone in an ethical and sustainable manner. Here are 10 stylistic exercises around natural diamonds.
1. Parisian – Karine Chedid Joaillerie
Passionate about jewellery from a young age, Karine Chedid started designing engagement rings for her friends and later her friends' friends. In 2016, she left the luxury car business to fully dedicate herself to jewellery. Her passion? She likes subverting expectations by offering ethical gems and high-quality, slightly atypical stones such as "Salt & pepper" diamonds. Like her, her jewellery is simple, elegant and so Parisian. Her creations, named after Parisian districts, are designed to be worn on a daily basis. They are classic and elegant, with that little twist of fantasy we love. At the same time, she offers vintage pieces and an upcycling service to rebuild jewellery from old pieces. Always with the highest quality standards, the pieces are made in the most demanding Parisian studios.
Our favourite? The Alma earrings made of pink gold with 5 round cognac diamonds in shades of brown. €4,690 - www.karinechedid.paris
2. Rock – Akillis
Founded by Caroline Gaspard in 2007, Akillis breaks out of the mould. And the designer has the right temperament to do so! Fiery, iconoclastic, determined and passionate, she made a sensational entry into the classic field of jewellery with her first collection Bang Bang, a gold bullet. In no time at all, she threw herself headfirst into the adventure. But beware – as the daughter of entrepreneurs, she remains faithful to her founding principles, such as a sense of effort and a passion for gemstones, which she inherited from her mother who holds a degree in gemmology. From then on, she gave free rein to her imagination without ever censoring herself. Travel, design, perfume, gemstone... inspiration is omnipresent and no technical problem will get in the way. In its studio based in France, Akillis masters all steps in the creation of a piece of jewellery: from moulding to casting to setting, including machining and polishing. And always with a touch of playfulness. The Puzzle, Fatal Attraction, Python, Spread your Wings and Tattoo collections are all proof of this, standing at the borderline between jewellery and tattoos for those who are too scared to go indelible. A tribute to Maori art, conceived as a second skin and imbued with the tribal warrior spirit, the case – for her and for him – adapts to all moments of life and is composed of either ready-to-wear pieces or a high jewellery set.
Our favourite? The Tattoo bracelet in white gold paved with diamonds (4.85 carats), €25,000 - www.akillis.com
3. Radiant – Manipura
In the South of France, in Mougins, Manipura, run by Christophe Ragnoni, is part of a humanist approach. His philosophy? There is a treasure in each of us. And for each great moment and each loved one, there is a radiant jewel that is a symbol and a message of love. Among these unique pieces charged with a powerful positive energy, made of 18k gold and natural ethical diamonds, the “Le cercle d'or” collection offers the possibility to create a custom piece of jewellery – choice of gold, cord and engraving – to gift to a baby or his/her parents to celebrate a birth. An engagement in sight? The wedding rings are simply sublime!
Our favourite? The massive Manipura ring with its modern lines revealing a 0.13-carat natural diamond, set in yellow, pink or white gold. €1,680 - www.manipura.fr
4. Mix & Match – Seijna
Founded by Déborah Lombroso in 2011, the Parisian brand Seijna creates jewellery pieces made of 18k gold, diamonds and gemstones, which have all been carefully selected. Meeting the expectations of modern women, their collections build a "ready-to-wear" jewellery wardrobe. Fashionistas can easily grab the pieces, collect them, match them, layer them and combine them, in accordance with the art of stacking – which consists of wearing jewellery pieces combined. In addition to its bespoke service, the label stands out by offering piercings and ear cuffs besides classic rings, necklaces and earrings.
Our favourite? The pure and minimalist Mini Line earrings, which can be worn with rock or playful patterned studs. €1,460 for the yellow gold and diamond version - www.seijna.com
5. Arty – Debusigne
A graduate in ancient history and philosophy, Aline Debusigne launched her jewellery brand in 2018. It is her passion for antique jewellery-making that led her to create her own collections. As a result, she creates contemporary pieces by hand, using traditional techniques and recycled old-cut diamonds. Her signature? She presents unique pieces with a strong focus on ergonomics and light. Her work was revealed at Gemgeneve in 2021.
Our favourite is unquestionably the poetic and smooth “plastron”, adorned with diamonds. Price upon request - @debusigne_jewellery on Instagram
6. Couture – Philippe Lauras
Following experience in Parisian studios selected by the greatest jewellery brands, and sensitive to art from a very young age, Philippe Lauras has chosen to embark on a new challenge by creating his own collection, made up of unique pieces and limited-edition jewellery. Imbued with this much-coveted French elegance, and handmade in a studio near Paris, his creations meet the most demanding technical and aesthetic criteria, without forgetting the comfort of the wearer. With smooth, often asymmetrical curves and generous volumes, his mobile jewellery is pleasant to wear, playing on suppleness and lightness. His jewellery sets are inspired by the world of couture, with precious, sparkling ribbons and bows.
Our favourite? The “Sage Fantaisie” earrings, pretty bows made of palladium-plated white gold and pink gold, set with 158 diamonds. Price upon request - www.philippelaurasjoaillier.com
7. Vibrant – Marie Mas
Offering magic to women... Such is the motto of Marie Mas. To enchant daily life, jewels come to life when worn, the gemstones changing colours, dancing to the rhythm of movements. But how is this possible? Thanks to patented techniques. For example, the earrings are equipped with a double clasp system so they can be worn in either direction, thus transforming their shape and colour, while in the Wave collection, fine diamond-set stems follow the curve of the fingers to give the ring a unique volume. This magic is meticulously orchestrated around 5 steps in the studio in order to obtain the perfect jewel. Another signature – the cut of the gemstones in the Swinging Stones collection has been developed in-house to adapt to the brand’s double-setting technique, ensuring a beautiful density of colour and incomparable reflections.
Our favourite? The trendy Radiant choker in pink gold set with 73 diamonds. Modern and delicate. €18,000 - www.mariemas.com
8. Neoclassic – Nouvel Héritage
Born from a contradiction – to create jewellery that is furiously modern but irresistibly timeless – Nouvel Héritage offers pieces that are adapted to the new way of wearing jewellery, i.e. stacking. Totally in tune with the times, the label is thus also in tune with its convictions. The family studio of designer Camille Parruitte makes it a point of honour to create responsible jewellery, using recycled yellow gold and ethically sourced materials. Between elegance and timelessness, the new Vendôme collection celebrates Parisian chic by combining diamonds, pearls, sapphires, spinels and other stones with yellow, white or pink gold. As a bonus, the online shop allows those who are feeling uninspired to discover pieces according to profiles and personalities: romantic, jetsetter, minimalist... It's up to you!
Our favourite? The gold and diamond bangles to collect and stack. There is something for every moment and event. For example, the “Soirée Mood” gold bracelet set with brilliant and pear-cut diamonds. €12,900 - www.nouvelheritage.com
9. Hype – Messika
Do we still need to introduce Messika, founded in Paris in 2005? Its slightly rock jewellery and its iconic mobile diamonds have seduced celebrities all over the world, including Beyoncé and Kate Moss! As the daughter of famous diamond merchant André Messika, Valérie grew up around natural diamonds. She has set herself the challenge to elevate diamonds, push boundaries and constantly seek excellence. A challenge which she has taken up! With her jewellery, she invites women to become what they are, brilliant, free, vibrant and sensual. Modern, always. Confident, without question. They wear diamonds everyday as well as for special occasions. And for them, Messika offers both easy-to-wear pieces such as the Move collections and sumptuous fine jewellery sets. Never a faux pas, always in tune with the times, in accordance with current desires.
Our favourite? The “Uno” chain and stud earrings that play with asymmetry. We can't get enough of them! On one side, the signature Move Uno pattern adorns the lobe dressed in a sensual pink gold chain that sways to the rhythm of our movements, and on the other, a discreet pink gold and diamond stud. €2,050 - www.messika.com
10. Sleek – Sophie Bille Brahe
Born in Copenhagen, Denmark, jewellery designer Sophie Bille Brahe graduated from the prestigious Royal College of Arts in London with a Master’s degree. Returning to her hometown in 2011, she created her eponymous brand with one goal in mind: to tell stories through desirable jewellery, which will then be passed on to the next generation. Her signature? Sleek designs that emphasise the raw beauty of diamonds, classical motifs reinterpreted by her Scandinavian minimalism and a celestial inspiration, linked to her childhood – she is a descendant of a 16th century astronomy pioneer, Tycho Brahe. Her mission? To elevate the precious materials – gold and diamonds – that nature offers us. A challenge she has met with flying colours!
Our favourite? Her refined work around the symbol of love, the heart. And in particular, the “Orangerie de Coeur” necklace, whose finesse gracefully highlights a pretty neckline. Orangerie de Cœur yellow gold necklace with a heart-cut diamond. €3,650 - www.sophiebillebrahe.com
If you were looking for jewellery from a more intimate brand than the great institutions of the Place Vendôme, you are now ready to make your choice! You hold all the cards to offer or treat yourself with a marvel created by the new generation of jewellery designers. It's your call!
Article written in collaboration with the Natural Diamond Council.