How to choose the perfect diamond engagement ring

Engagement ring Expertise

Written by Bérengère Treussard - Saturday, July 31, 2021

Your significant other is about to propose – need a little help to find the perfect engagement ring? The symbol of your love that you will wear on your ring finger until the end of time…

LIKE A B. is here to guide you in this somewhat difficult choice and, quite surprisingly – romanticism still exists – we get more requests from men than women, as demonstrated by our last two rings made by Bertrand and Jean-Baptiste for their proposals, which of course were successful!

Here are a few tips for choosing the right diamond engagement ring. White diamond or colored diamond? What are the 4Cs and what are they used for? What diamond size? How do I choose based on my skin tone? And finally, how much does it all cost?

Those are perfectly legitimate questions to ask before choosing the perfect engagement ring!

From white diamonds to colored diamonds…

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder – but also in his wallet, let’s not forget. When it comes to colored diamonds, especially yellow, pink or blue, prices can escalate very quickly as these are increasingly rare. But if you have an unlimited budget, it may be worth considering because, beyond originality and beauty, colored diamonds – pink diamonds in particular – can be an investment, especially since the closure of the Argyle mine (Australia)..

“The Spirit of the Rose” – 14.83-carat pink diamond sold on November 11 at Sotheby’s © Sotheby’s

Natural diamonds or lab-grown diamonds?

“Why not choose a lab-grown diamond since it has the same properties as a natural diamond and is less expensive?”, you may ask.

I’m going to be honest, you could do that, but don’t be surprised in 10 years when your diamond has lost more than half of its value. You need to choose! In my opinion, beyond the debated and unverifiable carbon footprint, the value must be the determining factor and by playing the natural diamond card, you’re taking a measured and informed risk, that’s for sure. We are also aware that diamond mines have implemented a number of measures, as we discussed in our article “What future for natural diamonds?”.

How to choose the right diamond

On the basis of a natural white diamond, you need to familiarize yourself with certain jargon terms so you don’t get lost. Don’t panic, you just need to read our article “All you need to know about diamonds” which explains it all!

Mastering the 4Cs…

In short, you need to master the 4Cs!

Diamonds are assessed using four criteria, known as the 4Cs: Carat weight, Clarity, Color and Cut, which facilitate their classification and evaluation.

- One carat equals 0.2 g.

- Clarity ranges from purest (Flawless / Internally Flawless), i.e. with no inclusions (very rare) to very very small inclusions (VVS1 or VVS2: Very Very Slightly Included), or even very small inclusions (VS1 or VS2: Very Slightly Included) or small inclusions (SI1, SI2 or SI3), up to pique / inclusions (P1, P2 or P3) usually visible to the naked eye.

- Color ranges from D (whitest) to Z. From M onwards, the color appears more and more yellow to the naked eye, and beyond Z we refer to “Fancy” diamonds, i.e. unclassifiable and of great value.

Diamond color grading scale © GIA

- The cut refers to the diamond’s shape. The most popular is the brilliant (round) cut, however increasingly more grooms are choosing less conventional cuts such as the princess (square) cut or the cushion cut, which in some cases allow you to get a heavier weight, and thus a larger diamond, for the same price as a brilliant.

Main diamond cuts

In fact, carat and color are the two most important criteria. Obviously, the fewer inclusions, the higher the price (purity), but what matters is that the inclusions cannot be seen with the naked eye, so quite frankly you should just avoid P.

Obviously, the higher the carat number, the closer the color is to D, the higher the price. It is best to choose a little below 1 carat (e.g., 0.90 ct) or 2 carats (1.90 ct) to limit the price difference. These sizes are relatively popular, so the market is a little tight. If you can afford it, buy bigger!

This is indeed what Tony Haddad, founder of the B2B & B2C diamond supplier Diamprest, suggests. We have interviewed him to get an idea of the current market price.

A 1-carat G-color VS1 diamond is around €8,000, but if you choose a 0.90-carat diamond it will be around €6,000 and the difference is barely visible to the naked eye. A 1.90-carat G VS1 diamond is around €18,000.

In comparison, a 1-carat D-color VS1 diamond is €10,000 and an I-color VS1 diamond is €5,700.

If you’re on a moderate budget, we recommend the color G, H or I for natural white diamonds, except for yellow gold settings as we will discuss later.

Out of curiosity and as a diamond specialist, we’ve also asked Tony Haddad about colored diamond prices. Since my dream ring has a cushion-cut pink diamond surrounded by two natural white troida-cut diamonds, I needed to know! I’m sure you’re also wondering how much it all costs, right?

You might want to sit down for this – a 1-carat intense pink diamond is around €300K… I knew I had expensive taste…

Intense blue diamonds remain the most expensive as they cost between €600K and €700K…

As for yellow diamonds, Tony taught me that the brilliant (round) cut is the most expensive for the color yellow, in particular compared to the more widespread cushion cut, because it is more difficult to maintain a beautiful color with the brilliant cut, which is less thick than the cushion cut. For a 1-carat cushion cut, you will need to spend €5,000-6,000 while for a brilliant cut, the price range is €12-15K.

There are also icy diamonds and grey diamonds, with which the designer Karine Chedid works very well and which are a little less expensive. Icy diamonds cost between €2,500 and €3,000 per carat, and included grey diamonds are around €2,000.

If you buy from Place Vendôme brands, you will pay an additional margin which relates to the brand name and can go as far as doubling the price of the ring. But if your significant other wants a Tiffany & Co. ring and nothing else, start saving because 1 carat costs around €15K.

Finally, consider requesting a Gem Lab Certification. It is compulsory for gems over 0.5 ct. It allows you to make sure your diamond is a real one and serves as a guarantee, in particular vis-à-vis your insurer.

Which diamond color for which setting?

White gold, platinum, yellow gold or rose gold?

White gold, platinum, yellow gold or rose gold – you need to choose based on the color of your diamond but also based on your complexion. Both criteria must be taken into account to make sure you choose the right engagement ring and won’t get bored with it.

If you want a high-quality diamond – you want it as white and pure as your love and you have chosen a D-color Flawless diamond (the very best): up to the G color, it would be a shame to choose a yellow gold or rose gold setting. Instead, go for a white gold or platinum setting which will really enhance the diamond.

Yellow gold or rose gold

If you tend to wear yellow gold or rose gold in your daily life and that’s what really complements your skin tone, it would be a shame to wear white gold or platinum – even though the color you wear around your finger is secondary, since the color you wear near your face (necklace and earrings) is what really matters. However, you need to think it over because you will spend – and we hope you do – several years with this engagement ring.

So the yellow setting suits you perfectly, great news! You can go down a little in diamond color – it won’t be noticeable thanks to the color of the setting – and therefore choose a larger diamond!

If you’re a little lost and don’t know what color suits you best, don’t panic. There is a science called colorimetry at the service of your beauty and image. It’s simple, all you need to do is put a piece of silver or gold fabric under your face and look in the mirror. You will immediately see which color makes you look more radiant and makes your complexion appear fresher.

If you’re still hesitating after this, any good designer or jeweler will be able to guide you, so you should definitely look into it. We are also here to help you; you can send us your requests (contact@likeab.com) and we will refer you to the most suitable designer or jeweler.

Ethical gold?

You might be wondering about ethical gold, whether that is Fairmined gold which provides a guarantee on gold mining conditions, or recycled gold which reuses old gold.

Increasingly more designers are using recycled gold to make jewelry, especially in Paris, and some may even offer to use your old or broken jewelry to make a beautiful engagement ring. This can sometimes substantially lower the price. Indeed, the repurchase price of gold is currently around €30, and this varies with the price of gold. So remember to ask if you’re having your ring made. Some Place Vendôme brands such as Chopard use Fairmined gold.

Chopard For Ever Pavé ring © Chopard

Opt for Made in France

Finally, if you’re diving into an online purchase on your own, we recommend downloading our ring size chart and, before buying, doing some research on the origin and place of manufacture as well as reinsurance.

We may not all be able to afford Made in France, but we can at least try to avoid Made in China – trust, me, it’s for the best. That’s how I see it anyway and I have supported French and European designers for their savoir-faire and their talent for many years.

We hope we were able to help! To learn more about diamonds, we recommend you to check out the rich and interesting website: Natural Diamond Council.