Synthetic diamonds: French law is crystal clear!

Expertise

Written by Bérengère Treussard - Friday, February 9, 2024

You might be wondering what the difference is between a natural diamond and a synthetic diamond.

Well, you're not alone! The Diamond Collective* has observed significant confusion surrounding these terms.

Although French law has been crystal clear since 2002, safeguarding consumer interests, brands involved in producing or marketing synthetic diamonds have attempted to amend it to endorse the term “lab-grown diamond”.

© Bérengère Treussard 2024

Diamond vs synthetic diamond

The decree of January 14, 2002 established clear terminology to help consumers distinguish between these two types of diamonds. The Ministry of Economy, Finance, and Industrial and Digital Sovereignty has recently reaffirmed this on October 26, 2023.

Following the introduction of synthetic diamonds to the market over the past decade and despite the 2002 decree, some synthetic diamond brands have started using, for marketing reasons, terms such as "cultured diamond," "laboratory diamond," or "lab-grown diamond," even though they are synthetic diamonds manufactured in factories, most often in China.

These designations are no longer legal under French law: only the term "synthetic diamond" (“diamant de synthèse” or “diamant synthétique”) can be used.

Mina El Hadraoui, Director of the Natural Diamond Council in France and member of the Diamond Collective, emphasises that Decree No. 2002-65 of January 14, 2002 (Article 4) is crystal clear.

In France, the term "diamond" alone always refers to a natural diamond. For synthetic diamonds, only two terms are allowed: "diamant synthétique" and "diamant de synthèse" (“synthetic diamond”). The term "lab-grown diamond" is reserved for foreign use.

Mina El Hadraoui, General Manager of the Natural Diamond Council in France

As a reminder, natural diamonds (or simply diamonds) are gemstones that took several billion years to form and have been mined for at least 6,000 years. In contrast, synthetic diamonds are manufactured in factories using processes that can be more or less polluting, typically taking only a few hours to produce. They are by no means greener, contrary to the claims made by some brands marketing synthetic diamonds.

The decree specifies that the term "synthetic" must be used whenever the stone is wholly or partially manufactured by humans.

International standards and national regulations exist and must be adhered to when marketing these gemstones.

© Natural Diamond Council

Is a synthetic diamond worth as much as a natural diamond?

How could a stone made in just a few hours by a machine possibly hold the same value as one resulting from carbon being subjected to pressure for several billions of years? Synthetic diamonds simply do not carry the same value as natural diamonds, so be cautious when purchasing a diamond!

Some brands selling synthetic diamonds fail to clearly disclose their products' nature. I've noticed this at major French trade shows and fairs, which can lead to confusion among consumers – aka you! Synthetic diamonds must be prominently labelled, and as a consumer, you have the right to know exactly what you're buying.

This is why the Ministry of Economy, Finance, and Industrial and Digital Sovereignty has reaffirmed the enforcement of the 2002 decree, putting an end to all confusion. While it may seem trivial, in practice, this will provide better consumer protection. Indeed, France can boast having internationally admired legislation regarding diamonds.

This decision was warmly welcomed by Bernadette Pinet-Cuoq, Executive President of the UFBJOP and member of the Diamond Collective. She emphasises that this ensures clear information for consumers, in line with the French language and without ambiguity. Maintaining the January 14, 2002 decree protects consumers and upholds transparency rules.

Bernadette Pinet-Cuoq, Président de l’UFBJOP

This decision is perfectly aligned with the findings of an OpinionWay study conducted in 2020, which confirmed that the use of clear and understandable terminology is essential to enable consumers to purchase diamonds transparently.

Any tips for buying diamonds?

We thank French law for providing excellent consumer protection. Indeed, this regulation safeguards you and allows you to ask questions. Just because diamonds are considered luxury items, with an average price per carat around 4,000 euros, doesn't mean you shouldn't ask questions; quite the contrary!

If nothing is indicated in a diamond display, one can assume it is a natural diamond according to French law. However, always remember to inquire! The law mandates that synthetic diamonds must be clearly labelled as such, but this is far from always being the case, as I've observed on several occasions!

What's worse, you might be led to believe that synthetic diamonds are as expensive as natural diamonds, especially for smaller stones, which is completely FALSE!

I have nothing against synthetic diamonds, as long as you know what you're buying and the price you're paying – which should be at least 5 to 6 times cheaper than natural diamonds. You can treat yourself or have your favourite jewellery remade with synthetic diamonds for travel, but bear in mind that their value is completely different.

Brands using synthetic diamonds in their designs don't always disclose it and sometimes sell them at the same price as natural diamonds, adding to consumer confusion.

To avoid being misled and thinking you got a good deal when your jewellery or engagement ring will likely be worth nothing in a few years, remember to ask for a certificate!

Forewarned is forearmed! I’m counting on you.

*The Diamond Collective, composed of the Natural Diamond Council, the UFBJOP, Francéclat, the French Gemmological Laboratory (LFG), and the Jewellery and Watchmaking Union (UBH), aims to promote and enhance the natural diamond industry, inform about industry developments, encourage industry practice improvements, and highlight the advantages of natural diamonds over synthetic diamonds.

In collaboration with the Natural Diamond Council.