The perfect engagement ring by Coralie van Caloen

How could anyone resist Coralie van Caloen‘s rings? We want them all! Hand-drawn gold threads, hand-forged gold, high-quality gemstones – this Belgian designer creates gorgeous engagement rings and takes us into her elegant floral world, achieving a result of the finest quality.

After graduating from L’École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Visuels de La Cambre, Coralie trained as a jeweler in India, first at the Mumbai Institute of Gemology and later at the Gem Palace in Jaipur, before pursuing her career in London where she worked with several famous designers, including Alexander McQueen.

As a gemologist and jeweler, Coralie van Caloen has been making jewelry by hand for 10 years using ancient techniques, bespoke service and timeless creations that truly enhance gemstones.

As we share this love for gemstones and quality, we wanted to find out more and introduce you to her original, delicate and unique work.

Coralie van Caloen, you are a talented designer. After Brussels, you set up your workshop in Antwerp a few years ago.

Where do you draw your inspiration from? From flowers, but not only? Where did the original idea of cordes [strings] come from?

My inspiration is continuous. Some things disappear and I evolve with whatever interests me.

The cordes ring was for a first bespoke project. I had come up with many different proposals and we chose to pursue this idea. I went deeper and suggested variations based on this first design. A round model and a square model with a suspended gemstone, which involves many risks, including the gemstone breaking during setting, but results in a sleek finish.

Plants is a theme I was already working on as a student. It is a classic one in jewelry, but at the workshop we interpret it according to a certain style, with engraving.

What is your most successful ring?

The best-selling models that best represent the brand are the yellow gold double gingko ring and the fig tree leaf band ring. These are floral and original designs.

How do you go about creating bespoke jewelry?

I start talking with my clients. I ask a few questions that allow me to establish an initial mental project.

I then ask what kind of designs they like, the color of gold, the color of the gemstone, the type of gemstone ¬— if they know — and even a rough budget range.

I also send them a PDF with information. There are some prices on the website so people can know where they stand.

We then continue the conversation, either in person or via email, until the project is clearly defined. I often draw sketches I can show my clients, while reminding them that it is only a drawing, but it allows them to get a sense of the final product. Precise details are usually decided during the making of the piece at the workshop.

From then on, it takes approximately two months to make the piece.

I would also like to know more about your work, in particular the technique(s) you use?

At the workshop we focus on traditional work, with gold forging.

We start by making the 18k alloy depending on the color: yellow gold, white gold, pink or red gold, as well as platinum.

We then roll the metal, we twist it, weld it and cut it until we create a piece of jewelry. The piece is then engraved by hand, in particular for all botanical models.

After engraving, the piece is handed to the setter and the polisher, and then returned to the artisan jeweler who will check the final touches.

It is a much more difficult and longer process, but the end product is much more solid, more refined and more beautiful at the same time.

This traditional technique is no longer commonly used, but more and more people talk about this kind of quality and are interested in it.

Is traceability important to you when sourcing gemstones? RJC? Kimberley Process?

I know my gemstone dealers, some of them I become friends with. I also buy a lot of colored stones from small artisanal miners in Asia.

There are many gaps in the Kimberley Process and other systems. They only deal with large diamond transactions and do not even look at working conditions in mines.

In my opinion, the best thing to do is to work with artisanal miners as much as possible.

Do you use ethical gold (Fairmined or recycled)? Is it possible to bring gold or gemstones and reuse them to make a piece?

I work with a center that sells us recycled gold.

Old jewelry contains alloys that I do not know and whose color I cannot control.

Sometimes, the color we get when melting several pieces together does not look good, so I do not use this gold directly. However, I can guide people towards our recycling center.

What is your favorite gemstone?

I like tourmaline, emerald, spinel as well as any gemstone whose color is out of the ordinary.

What would you say to a couple looking to buy an engagement ring?

First, that they choose based on their tastes. Then, I would advise them to dedicate the largest part of their budget to the central gemstone, so they can pass on the ring in the future.

What is the average price for your rings?

From 1,800 euros incl. VAT for thin models. Above this there is no limit. Many projects fall between 4,000 and 15,000 euros incl. VAT.

Thank you, Coralie, and congratulations on your wonderful work.