Couture week: High jewellery

Fashion Week Fine Jewellery

Written by Bérengère Treussard - Monday, February 1, 2016

This week was Paris Couture Week. Yet only a few jewellery houses presented their high jewellery collection, preferring to wait until the July session, or further still for the Bienniale des Antiquaire due in September… For those who did have a showcase, there were two great trends: colourful and innovative for a Spring mood, and timeless diamonds.

The Maison Chopard was titanizing and colourful, this is the second time that the house ventures into the experience of titanium and I have to admit it’s rather successful because the choice of gems and the colour palette is bold and bright. These jewels are intended for innovative women and ready to challenge all the codes to free themselves from the constraints, weight for example, since titanium has the advantage of being extremely light.

Flower ring with removable pistils from Chopard Australia opal – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Jade, diamond and emerald earrings – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Cuff with removable butterfly in Chopard brooch – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Flower ring with removable pistons Chopard – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Titanium cuff and stones Chopard – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Chopard butterfly earrings – Photo © Bérengère Treussard

The Maison Chanel signed a collection reinterpreting the quilted pattern dear to the Coco Chanel collection of 1932. Pieces full set with diamonds with touches of pearls, extraordinary blue sapphires or mother of pearl delicately crafted together. Remarkable was the secret watch added to the collection Signature which will also be presented at Baselworld in March. A timeless and elegant collection for a woman who knows what she wants.

Chanel Pearl and Diamond Cuff – Signature Collection – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Chanel Signature Collection Necklace – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Chanel Secret watch with morganite – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Chanel Secret watch with morganite – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Chanel Signature Collection Crystal Rock Cuff – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Chanel Aquamarine Ring Signature Collection – Photo © Bérengère Treussard Chanel Signature Collection Yellow Gold Cufflinks – Photo © Bérengère Treussard

The Maison Dior presented several Mini collections in the line of the previous ones and also a new collection inspired by the childhood of Mr. Dior, and his multicoloured stickers. I love that the Granville collection (named after the town of Granville in Normandy) is very colourful but as for technicity it is a little disappointing for high jewellery. Were also exhibited the Mini Dior watches dear to Victoire de Castellane especially with her preferred gem the sugilite, available in jade and turquoise.

The Maison Boucheron showcased its line named A collection of animals that we have always loved with its hedgehogs, swans, birds and an amusing bestiary. I fell for Hopi the little hummingbird so delicate with its flower of pink sapphires and diamonds. Earrings inspired by the brooch previously presented at the Paris Biennale des Antiquaires and assorted timepieces.

Boucheron humming-bird Hopi -Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Boucheron Earrings – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Boucheron The Swans – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard

The Maison De Beers exhibited a Red Carpet collection for celebrities who want to wear jewellery without any financial compensation. Nothing new but a fairly impressive 70 carat yellow diamond straight out of the De Beers mines of South Africa, and a ring remarkable for its movement and the different diamond cuts involved.

De Beers Diamond necklace – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard De Beers Brooches in necklaces – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard De Beers red carpet diamond ring – Photo © Bérengère Treussard De Beers Fancy Yellow Diamond 70ct – Photo © Bérengère Treussard

Designer Isabelle Langlois released a very sweet and colourful collection made of assorted gems. The collection named Sac de billes (« Marbles » in English) is also reasonably affordable and adds a bit of fantasy in one’s life.

Isabelle Langlois Emotion ring – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Isabelle Langlois Villandry ring – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Isabelle Langlois Bead bag ring – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Isabelle Langlois Bead bag ring – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Isabelle Langlois Bead bag ring – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard

Designer Suzanne Syz showcased new pop style pieces based on high quality gems such as this exceptional purple tourmaline. The highlight was also on diamonds, and titanium made rings, her signature look. A watch indicating 10:10 permanently – the real time is hidden inside -was also presented in a limited edition of 8 pieces.

Suzanne Syz Violet tourmaline and Suzanne – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Suzanne Syz Opal ring – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Suzanne Syz amethyst earrings – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Suzanne Syz Titanium watch – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Suzanne Syz Diamond and titanium ring – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Suzanne Syz Unseen Burmese Saphir Ring The Magic Cloud – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard

Last but not least, for the Maison de GRISOGONO it was showtime: an elitist and festive evening to present the latest pieces of jewellery fresh out of the workshops. A fashion show was presented at that occasion by couture Maison GYUNEL. The models could have been a little more smiling and a little less skinny… Oops, sorry! That is not what they are asked to do! Ooh… Pardon me!

De GRISOGONO Caviar – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard Photo ©Bérengère Treussard De GRISOGONO earrings, amethyst and turquoise – Photo ©Bérengère Treussard

The creations represented the jewellery Maison perfectly: original and well made for a bold and modern woman.

The next fashion week is in July 2016. I hope you enjoyed this little retrospective, do not hesitate to comment or even to share. I am available to answer your questions regarding these collections and their secrets.

I also invite you to follow my Instagram where you’ll find quite a few photos, and more too come! Stay tuned!