Green Couture Week

Fashion Week Fine Jewellery

Written by Bérengère Treussard - Thursday, September 1, 2016

Palm Sensation transformable necklace by Piaget – Sunny side of life ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

Green Couture Week: a high jewellery week charged in emeralds…

This year once more, we were amazed by the High Jewellery presentation week which took place early July, because of the jewels presented and because of the places where the presentations were held.

The Place Vendôme not only was covered with a field of wheat for the occasion, it was remarkably beautiful with a profusion of emeralds of all origins. A desire to return to the nature and beauty of the green source of life.

Green fields, green jungle, the colour green as a symbol of renewal and protection, a majestic emerald green for Van Cleef & Arpels, a cheerful green for Piaget and its “Sunny Side of Life”, an elegant green at Boucheron, 26, place Vendôme, wheat field green at Chanel‘s, a graphic green by Alexandre Reza, a floral green for Giampiero Bodino and Chaumet, an animal green for Suzanne Syz, Lydia Courteille and Bulgari, and a cactus green for Cartier

More green to be found at jewellery Maison De Grisogono with a stunning emerald jewellery set, and in particular this pair of titanium earrings, set with diamonds and emeralds, an incredibly light piece which I can’t get my eyes off !

Earrings in titanium, set with diamonds and emeralds, by de Grisogono ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

The specific green colours of this Treasure Island cuff by Lorenz Bäumer hides a treasure inside and reveals a magnificent green tourmaline…

Lorenz Bäumer Treasure Island cuff ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

However, there was more to it than just green all over, the High Jewellery week was also shining bright with diamonds at jewellers Chanel, De Beers, Tiffany & co, Messika and Buccellati. Splendid diamonds with almost invisible settings and colours going from white to yellow, for instance at De Beers.

A fairytale for Maison Chaumet which celebrates nature and reinvents a symbolic, beautiful garden with sublime creations delicately crafted to represent the themes of wheat, lily and oak in particular. Bravo to Claire Devé-Rakoff, artistic director since 2012, for making our hearts melt at the magical view of these sublime gemstones. A magical garden of delight and an enchanting decor in the private louges of the Place Vendôme.

Transformable diadem « La Nature » by Chaumet ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

I was also enchanted by the staging of the presentation at jewellery Maison Boucheron which highlighted the architecture of the Place Vendôme, in particular of number 26, Place Vendôme, location of the historical flagship store. The prestige of the brand was represented by a magnificent cape in gold and diamonds, and at its heart a beautifully graphic citrine. A fashion show was staged by Olivier Saillard and was particularly remarkable: sensual, moving, love strikes at anytime even when you don’t don’t expect it, love defies morality and love is celebrated through jewellery. My heart fell for the bow rings of course in sapphire and emerald but also for a tuxedo tie necklace crafted with pleated diamonds and spinels, simply grand and above all extremely elegant.

Gold Cape by Boucheron 26 Vendome ©BérengèreTreussard 2016 Couture bow ring with emerald, by 26 vendome Boucheron ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

The Maison Piaget had put every effort into its presentation at hotel Potocki where we were welcomed by pink flamingos in a golden age Miami atmosphere. I saw The Sunny Side of Life! And most importantly I saw wonderful gemstones. I had a crush for two or three priceless pieces (however already sold)… An enchanting interlude and a journey in the land of Beauty.

Feather cuff, Piaget Sunny side of life ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

Special mention for the Maison Chanel who restored the hotel suite that Gabriel Chanel occupied at the Ritz and decorated it with wheat which was a sign of good luck for Coco. The collection is very high jewelry and certainly magnificent to wear but sadly the choice of scenography did not show all this beauty.

Diamond cuff, Les Blés by Chanel ©BérengèreTreussard 2016 Necklace brooch, Les Blés by Chanel ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

The Maison Dior presented a very beautiful collection all in mouvement and feminity, inspired by Versailles and Marie-Antoinette, crafted with ancient and modern techniques. I was a little dubious about mixing two techniques on one same piece. I found certain pieces so magnificent by their mouvement that the contrast in the realisation was of no specific interest.

Necklace from the Versailles collection, by Dior ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

The Maison Mellerio dits Meller and designer Isabelle Langlois presented their fruity coloured cocktails rings for summer.

Fabulous gemstones at Louis Vuitton: magnificent spinels, beryls, and also this tsavorite garnet. The Blosson collection is something to be remembered…

Tsavorite garnet bracelet by Louis Vuitton ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

The maison Morphée Joaillerie showcased its new collection « Forget me Not » including a spectacular hand jewel, currently available at the reputed London boutique William & Son.

Hand jewel, Forget Me Not by Morphée Jewellery. ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

To end this overview, here is a lovely multicolour floral pendant which was showcased by a new jewellery Maison named Emerald House, created by a French woman, former trader.

Pendant by Emerald House ©BérengèreTreussard 2016

Most of my favourites of this magnificent High Jewellery week are to be found on my Instagram

I invite you to follow me during the Paris Biennale des Antiquaires a few days from now, to discover what the Jewellery Maison are about to unveil…