SELLING JEWELRY: IS YOUR JEWELRY VALUABLE?

Auctions Expertise

Written by Bérengère Treussard - Tuesday, June 15, 2021

You already know everything about the taxes that come with selling precious jewelry thanks to our article What taxes when selling jewelry in France?. You want to know if the gold necklace lying at the bottom of your jewelry box is worth something? Or if the family ring you were gifted on your 18th birthday but no longer wear is from the famous Maison René Boivin?

Unlike watches, it is a little difficult to determine the value of a piece of jewelry, especially if you own a treasure without knowing it. You never really know who to turn to and going to your local jeweler seems a little complicated. Very often he will not buy jewelry and if he does, he will of course try to buy it from you at a low price so you will never truly know how much your jewelry is worth.

Did you know that most auction houses have their very own jewelry expert, who will be able to quickly provide an appraisal and offer to feature your piece in the catalog of their next sale if it matches house and sale standards? Either way, you will get an estimate for free with a short-term sales solution.

To find out more, we met Tajan’s Jewelry Department Director Victoire Winckler, who was kind enough to answer our questions and tell us about the lots featured in her next prestige auction to be held on July 12th.

What are your criteria when appraising a piece of jewelry?

Jewelry often takes on a very special role. It is part of a person’s life, of a family, and it is often difficult to part with it. Whether it has been sitting in a safe for several years or has been worn until recently.

Therefore, an essential part of our expertise work consists in listening to our clients, their needs, their story and assisting them in the process. It is important to consider their priorities. It is not simply about putting a price on an object, it is about assigning value to a good that is dear to them, because selling a family jewel is generally done when carrying out a new project.

Our role is to be one of the key players in the transfer of this jewel, to write a new chapter in its story while getting the best results for the seller.

Once this has been taken into account, the actual expertise can begin. We first assess the general condition of the piece. We determine what metal it is made of, what gemstones, but also the jeweler’s work, we search for a signature or a possible hallmark. Finally, we give an accurate appraisal which reflects market reality as we know it and will make potential bidders want to join in to try and acquire the piece during the auction. The object’s intrinsic value can increase or vary depending on the origin without this being obviously quantifiable.

What are the most popular pieces at the moment?

Of course, major French and international jewelry brands are at the top of the list, like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Lacloche, Mauboussin… and obviously two well-known designers, René Boivin and Suzanne Belperron, who have pride of place among our collectors.

For instance, I’m referring to an exceptional beauty box made of red enamel and diamonds from Lacloche Frères that we sold for a little over €130,000. Or a large Frédéric Boucheron brooch from 1888-1889 depicting a lilac flower (a special order and gift from Emperor Ferdinand of Bulgaria to Countess Anna de Grenaud de Saint Christophe for her wedding with Dimitri Strancioff, his prime minister) sold for more than €120,000. From Suzanne Belperron, a diamond and emerald jewelry set (circa 1935) which totaled around €236,000

In recent years, buyers and collectors have shown keen interest in antique jewelry dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries, the Art Deco era of course, as well as the 1940s and 1950s. Our collectors enjoy these pieces because they demonstrate the exceptional savoir-faire of the master goldsmiths and workshops of the time. French heritage and culture are highly represented in jewelry and still attract bidders from all over the world.

However, 80s jewelry has also been back in style recently and attracts growing interest from our buyers, especially when signed.

How can one contact you to come and show you their jewelry? Do you have remote appraisal options?

Quite simply, we are available every day. It is always easier to appraise a piece of jewelry physically, so we prefer to give our clients appointments at our study when possible.

Thanks to our representatives, we are also present in several French cities throughout the year, such as Lyon, Nantes or Reims, and outside our borders in Geneva, a hotspot for jewelry. Alongside this, we organize expertise days (more than a hundred per year) in major cities such as Bordeaux, Aix-en-Provence, Neuilly, Nice, Cannes, Brussels, Rome, Madrid, Strasbourg or Biarritz.

We offer electronic appraisal solutions which are increasingly popular in view of the current health situation, such as video-expertise, our online estimate form or our Tajan Art Valuation app which allows you to request an appraisal from your mobile phone. The concept is similar to that of the online estimate, but you can also directly access your camera without having to move your pictures to your computer… it is a lot easier and a real time-saver! Processing times are also shorter, and you can track the status of your request with notifications.

We are of course available every day and can be reached by phone or by email, should you wish to send us photos or videos directly at estimation@tajan.com.

What are the most beautiful pieces to be presented at your next prestige sale on July 12, 2021?

How can I choose? We are fortunate enough to have several beautiful private collections featured in this sale.

Here are a few examples:

My first favorite is an exceptional RENÉ BOIVIN necklace from 1935-1945 adorned with citrine and colored beryl, immediately recognizable with its sinuous lines and its unrivaled style. It is incredibly supple and perfectly hugs the curves of your neck – a real treat. It comes with matching ear clips and a pair of drop earrings set with an old-cut cushion diamond of around 4 carats each.

RENÉ BOIVIN beryl and citrine necklace (1935-195) ©BérengèreTreussard2021
18k rose gold setting.
Weight: 88.68 g
Length: 14.3 cm
Original red velvet case from Maison Boivin
Certificate from Françoise CAILLES and Jean-Norbert SALIT
€25,000-35,000

RENÉ BOIVIN citrine and beryl drop earrings (1950s – 1960s) ©BérengèreTreussard2021
18k yellow gold setting.
Weight: 54.02 g
Height: 9.5 cm
Clip system
€10,000-15,000

We have another large “drapery” necklace from the late 19th century adorned with over 25 carats of diamonds, coming from an old French family.

Diamond “drapery” necklace ©BérengèreTreussard2021
It is made up of fifty-four drops ending with brilliant- or cushion-cut diamonds in claw setting. The lambrequin patterns and the choker are also set with brilliant-cut diamonds. 14k rose gold and silver setting.
Gross weight: 97.17 g
Dimensions: 38 x 3.5 cm
Weight of the seven diamonds in the center: 1.80 - 1.50 - 1.50 -1.10 - 1.10 - 1.00 -1.00 carats approximately
Total weight of the other diamonds: approximately 15-17 carats
€15,000-20,000

Or a beautiful emerald ring from BOUCHERON circa 1900.

BOUCHERON emerald ring (1900s) ©BérengèreTreussard2021
Rectangular ring adorned with a square emerald with beveled edges, surrounded by small rose cut diamonds. Platinum setting. French work, BOUCHERON hallmark.
Weight: 5.54 g
Emerald weight: approx. 3 carats
€10,000-15,000

We will also present an imposing solitaire diamond weighing 12 carats.

And of course, a wonderful pair of SUZANNE BELPERRON ear clips (circa 1945), adorned with cabochon amethysts and turquoise in an asymmetrical face-to-face. Once again, the harmonious colors and curves of this creation make it highly original. Need I remind you that Suzanne Belperron was Maison BOIVIN‘s designer for many years, and a great jewelry designer. A woman who created jewelry for women! This is reflected in her attention to detail and especially in the great comfort that comes with wearing these clip earrings.

SUZANNE BELPERRON ear clips (circa 1945) adorned with cabochon amethysts and turquoise ©BérengèreTreussard2021

Can we still submit jewelry pieces for this next sale? If yes, how? If not, when will the next sale be?

Of course! We will close the sale sometime in June. Do not hesitate to contact us by phone or by email to set up an appointment. Or with LIKE A B.’s help ;)

The next sales will be held in October and December. We already have some nice surprises in store for you for this Christmas sale!

What are Tajan’s values and what are your skills in terms of expertise?

I have been lucky enough to work for 10 years with a passionate expert, Jean-Norbert Salit, who is, alongside Françoise Cailles, the expert in BOIVIN jewelry. And also an expert in rubies and fine pearls. We make a great team.

We are committed to providing personalized and privileged service to our customers by taking the utmost care of their objects and works of art.

As I was saying earlier, we especially like old jewelry – Art Deco, 1940s-1950s, as well as any piece with a little bit of charm. Colored stones and diamonds. What is fascinating about this job is the constant discoveries we make, the people we meet, and the unknown world that opens up before us when the sale comes, until the final hammer blow, resulting from a collector’s desire to acquire an object.

Lastly, can you remind us how auctions work and in particular withdrawal fees?

First of all, it is important to note that auctions are public, meaning anyone can take part as a buyer, but also as a seller. Do not hesitate to walk into an auction house, we are here to help the client in the expertise process and advise him as best as possible by placing his object in the most appropriate sale.

At the end of the appraisal, we offer the seller the estimate that seems most in line with the market, while respecting his desire to get the best price. This is why we set a reserve price, which guarantees the seller a minimum selling price. We work in full confidence with our clients, we tell them we are on the same side and that our role is to support them to achieve the best result.

Thank you for your clear answers, Victoire. You now know what you need to do in order to find out if your jewelry is valuable. You just need to go to Tajan and potentially take advantage of the sale on July 12, 2021, in Paris.

The lots will be exhibited a few days prior to the sale at Tajan – go check it out and register online to take part in the auction from the comfort of your home.

Should you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us at contact@likeab.com.

Victoire Winckler
winckler-v@tajan.com

Maison Tajan
37 rue des Mathurins
75008 Paris
Tel : +33 (0) 1 53 30 30 30