Legitimized by its historic houses and re-enchanted by young brands,
Devastated by the quartz crisis in the 80s, French watchmaking experienced a new momentum. Driven by historic houses and passionate young entrepreneurs, the sector has been revitalizing itself over the past ten years. So much so that France is one of the world leaders in watchmaking, ranking 5th among watch exporting countries. But how can this success be explained? Compared to the 30 billion dollars that Swiss exports weigh, representing such a small share of the market – 410 million in turnover in 2023 – is a godsend: no pressure and a freedom of tone that allows you to stand out from the Swiss, but also from Japan, Germany or China.
Historic watch houses in full awakening: Lip, Pequignet, Herbelin, Pierre Lannier, Auriscote, Yema...
Among the most prestigious manufactures, Lip, founded in 1867 in Besançon, is a mirror of the sector: judicial liquidation in 1977, relaunch in 2002 and then rebirth in 2010 with the return to French production of its watches. Its star model? The General de Gaulle watch, born in the 1960s and which has become a symbol of French watchmaking, modern, ambitious and proudly national. The good news is that the manufacturer is now reinterpreting its classic in a 31 mm diameter, in a gold or silver version.
Also back in the spotlight, Auriscote, a watchmaker for the French Navy, but also for the geographical service of the Army and the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, has been linked to French naval aviation since its origins in 1854. Its chronographs are such reliable measuring instruments that they appeal to both specialists and lovers of precision mechanisms in the 4 corners of the globe. Professional watches also for the Yema brand , which has been supporting divers, soldiers, astronauts and athletes since 1948.
Another historic house? Pequignet is proud to be the only French Haute Horlogerie manufacture located in Morteau since 1973. Indeed, the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant offers high-flying mechanical watches, designing the entire watch – dial, case, hands, movement, etc. – with prices ranging from 5000 to 10,000 euros. When the Swiss equivalent costs twice as much! In short, the French watch represents excellent value for money. Another advantage? A side "reserved for the happy-few" that seduces the collector. The approach? Choose a watch that sets you apart
At Herbelin, a family business founded in 1947 in the Doubs, customers are enlightened amateurs who are looking for authenticity, quality... But also a discreet, refined and sincere luxury. When he already owns a Rolex, a Patek Philippe and an Omega, the enthusiast only dreams of a more confidential piece, which gives the impression of being part of a club. Finally, the buyer is in a desire to consume locally and to promote national know-how. This approach did not escape Herbelin, which launched an advertising campaign "Tellement French" in the fall of 2025 to reaffirm its identity. Pastel Solex, baguette, pumps, iconic bags or marine ropes... The family business diverts all the clichés associated with France, with humour and elegance.
Another family house, Pierre Lannier, has recently joined a new brand. Under the name of 1977, this line – with at least 75% of French components – is a reminder that know-how is mastered in the region! After having relocated a large part of its production to Madagascar in the past, the brand is backtracking: it now manufactures 82% of its watches in the Bas-Rhin region. At its head, Pierre Burgun is also President of France Horlogerie, the professional body serving the sector which brings together 92 members.
French chic is reinventing itself: Beaubleu, MARCH LA. B, Trilobe, Hegid, FOB Paris or Depancel...
French watchmaking is also very creative thanks to the young brands that are happily participating in this revitalization.
The figurehead of this new guard, MARCH LA. B is living a real success story. In 2009, Alain Marhic and Joseph Chatel decided to bring a new French piece to the great world watchmaking puzzle. At the time, no one really believed in it. And yet... By highlighting French elegance and transposing its products into the worlds of surfing, modernist architecture or old motorcycles from the 70s, the duo conquers a demanding public. And now it even has collectors. The latest addition? The M2 Automatic Nyctalope Carbon, in a limited edition of 169 pieces.
Launched by crowdfunding platforms, led by Kickstarter, many start-ups have followed in the footsteps of MARCH LA. B, delivering pieces with unbridled fantasy, innovative and creative. These include Beaubleu and its round hands, which this year have signed a collaboration with the Monnaie de Paris, Trilobe and its handless reading of the time, the mono-hands of Gustave & Cie – a nod to Monsieur Eiffel -, the small cars inspired by the automotive world of Depancel, the sporty chic nuggets of Briston, the minimalism of Apose or the delicate pieces of Gemmyo or Poiray, perfectly adapted to the female wrist.
Not to mention Charlie Paris, which has been designing and assembling its watches in Paris since 2014, or Baltic, an independent watchmaking house, which makes us see all the colors with its Hermétique Summer watch in a pop palette.
This freedom of tone, so dear to French watchmaking, is also wonderfully illustrated with the evolving watch by Hegid, a young brand launched in 2018 around an original concept, the Evol system. This patented system allows the style of the watch to be changed in seconds and in complete safety, thanks to a steel capsule – which encloses the movement – which can be integrated into a new case or on a new bracelet.
Finally, the elegant women could not resist the mechanical and poetic jewels of Fob Paris. The course of action? Redefining the codes with precious metal cases, skeleton movements, patinated dials... Our favorite? The concept of the R100 modular watch which, thanks to a ring, can be attached or detached on a cuff. A bit of rock. Undeniably sophisticated!