Written by Julie de Los Rios - Wednesday, November 16, 2022
Under the impetus of young brands and historic brands, the French watchmaking industry is undergoing dramatic renewal. This effervescence has inspired Francéclat to create a tricolored communication campaign that celebrates this collective adventure, as well as the French art of living which is so coveted around the world.
Although national brands share a certain poetry and the desire to set the record straight - the cradle of watchmaking is indeed on our side of the border! - each one cultivates its own identity. And the good news is that there is something to suit every style and every need!
Do you feel a little lost in the middle of all these brands? You can’t go wrong by choosing among the collections of the brands labeled Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (Living Heritage Company). Created in 2005 by the Association Nationale des Entreprises du Patrimoine Vivant, run since 2020 by Tristan de Witte, this official French label is issued under the authority of the Ministry of Economy and Finance to honor French companies with excellent artisanal and industrial savoir-faire. Among them, we love the neoclassical style of Péquignet, which has been booming since it was taken over by its employees in 2017 and then joined the Maisons d'Excellence branch of Hugues Souparis' Enowe family group in 2021. Moreover, it is the only house that offers a movement entirely made in France. It's not surprising that Pierre Lannier called on it to present a 100% French model. "We have always defended French savoir-faire and, through this unique project, we are positioning ourselves as a major stakeholder in the revival of the French watch industry. We are also one of the only French watchmakers to use so many French elements in the composition of this watch - including the movement supplied by Péquignet", explains Pierre Burgun, the brand's CEO. The result? To celebrate its 45th anniversary, the Pierre Lannier company, which was born in Alsace and has been labeled a Living Heritage Company since 2014, is relocating its production with this limited edition of 500 numbered pieces. The 1977 model is entirely designed and assembled in France; all components, with one exception (the dial made by the Swiss manufacture CADRATEC), come from France.
The famous Lip manufacture also tells us a bit of French history. The phosphorescent dials of Pierre and Marie Curie (1904), the T18 watch offered to Sir Winston Churchill by De Gaulle (1946), the first electric watch (1952), the Mythic (2003)... the list goes on. And for good reason! Although Lip has been a registered trademark since 1908, its adventure begins long before, when Emmanuel Isaac Lipmann, from a Jewish family of Alsatian watchmakers, founded his studio in 1867. Today, the brand, which has two industrial sites, one in Besançon and one in Lectoure, is totally transparent. Although some parts are manufactured elsewhere (China, Switzerland, Italy or Japan), all watchmaking operations - from design to mass production - are carried out in Besançon. Today, the company pays tribute to its heritage by resurrecting an iconic model from the 60's, the SAV, a courtesy watch which was, at the time, lent to those who had their LIP watch serviced or repaired - this vocation was proudly displayed on the dial with the mention "APRES-VENTE - VOTRE HORLOGER VOUS PRETE L'HEURE" (“AFTER SALES - YOUR WATCHMAKER LENDS YOU THE TIME”). Today, Lip reissues this atypical model with a battery-operated movement and in its original 35mm diameter.
Another brand, another story... Herbelin, founded by Michel Herbelin, who in 1947, at the age of 26, set up his studio on the top floor of his parents’ house in Charquemont, a village in the heart of the Jura, and created his first watches including the IMPEC model. His goal? To combine elegance and technicality, with everything stamped made in France. In 1965, buoyed by the success of his watches, he created his eponymous brand. A passion which he passed on to his two sons. Today, the family business, supported by the 3rd generation and assisted by associates, is launching, for its 75th anniversary, a limited edition of 500 pieces - the Newport Slim Squelette. But not only that! The company has just opened its first global flagship store, in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris.
Gustave & Cie invites us to enjoy the moment without chasing time. The brand, founded in 2014 in Dijon by Guillaume Rémond and Timothée Barbier, has indeed made a bold choice: to offer single-handed French watches, with thus a different reading of the time, since the minute and seconds hands disappear to make way for the hour hand. Each collection pays tribute to a renowned Frenchman. After the André (Citroën) collection, here is Jules, the newest addition, an automatic watch and a nod to Jules Verne which was made for lovers of the marine world. All watches are assembled in Burgundy-Franche-Comté, near Besançon, then prepared and controlled in Paris.
Other brands on the rise?
Casual chic at Charlie Paris with very affordable automatic watches, conceptual at FOB Paris which revisits the gusset watch, adventurous at Akrone, Dodane 1857 or
The arty designs at March LA.B.: among the novelties, a collection in 18k gold and a collaboration with the jewelry and watch designer Sonia Lacroix.
Anyway... whether it’s confidential timepieces, ultra-limited series, future icons, timeless watches or wrist-sized masterpieces, French watchmaking will never cease to amaze us.
Want to surprise your loved one at Christmas? Stand out with an original watch? Treat a watch collector? Enhance the wrist of a precious woman of your circle or mark the birthday of an elegant friend? We have selected 12 French watches to gift to your loved ones or yourself.