Women's watches: our top 15 picks from Watches & Wonders

Watches and Wonders, the world's largest watch fair, held its record edition in Geneva from 27 March to 2 April. This year, 43,000 visitors strolled down the aisles to discover the latest models from the 48 exhibiting companies. There's no doubt about it: 2023 will go down as an exceptional vintage, full of joie de vivre and creativity. But what are the emerging trends in ladies' timepieces?

From the very first day, the presence of Julia Roberts on the Chopard stand set the tone for the event. As brand ambassador since 2021, the Pretty Woman lit up the aisles with her killer smile. She wanted to be present for the introduction of Lucent Steel in the watch collections. After ethical gold, Chopard is taking this innovative material a step further, becoming the first luxury brand to use 80% recycled steel for its steel watches. Among the new models, the Happy Sport collection is celebrating its 30th anniversary with new coloured versions, including a Lucent Steel one with changing reflections. Depending on your movements and the angle of your wrist, the dial is either tinted purple or blue. Patek Philippe has also added a splash of colour to its famous Ladies' Calatrava, with the dial oscillating from fuchsia to purple.

Watches & Wonders: an expression of emotion and boldness

Reinventing the classics... an arduous exercise that design studios are more than happy to indulge in. This year, Cartier is unveiling 77 new models, including several variations on the emblematic Baignoire watch and the Tank Normale watch, as close as possible to the original 1917 design. One of our favourites is the Clash [Un]Limited, which completes the Clash jewellery collection, featuring a new alloy – purple gold.

Panerai is showcasing its emblematic Radiomir with a diameter decreased to 40mm – a better style for slim wrists. Hublot is following suit with a "feminine" version of its Spirit of Big Bang. At Vacheron Constantin, new models from the Overseas collection are 34.5 mm in diameter for the unset models and 35 mm for the set pieces, while Chanel is taking its icons - J12, Première, Boy.Friend and Code Coco - on a futuristic odyssey through the cosmos. Among the Interstellar capsule, the Première Robot is simply irresistible!

Another highlight of this 2023 edition? A surprise from Rolex! This year, Rolex is celebrating 60 years of the Daytona and 70 years of the Explorer. And yet it was its revisited Day-Date 36, in a completely unexpected style, that caught everyone's eye. These future collector’s pieces are original and filled with joie de vivre. At 12 o'clock, an inspiring keyword – Happy, Eternity, Gratitude, Peace, Faith, Love or Hope – appears in the arched window where the day of the week is normally displayed, while at 3 o'clock, the window reveals one of the 31 emojis designed by Rolex – a heart, a four-leaf clover, or a smiley face... Pushing this bold concept to the extreme, the dial is adorned with a jigsaw puzzle whose coloured pieces are made of champlevé enamel.

Watches & Wonders: jewellery that tells the time

Another strong trend? Reviving the tradition of fine jewellery watches. In their studios, jewellers and watchmakers work hand in hand, giving free rein to their creativity. While this year’s must-have will continue to be the time-telling sautoir (see our article It’s time for sautoirs! A trend revealed at Watches and Wonders, on the wrist, timepieces are shining bright. At Piaget, for example, the fine jewellery piece Aura blossoms in a harmony of sapphires and diamonds. At Van Cleef & Arpels, the Ludo secret watch brings back into fashion the aesthetic of the Ludo bracelet created in 1934, inspired by the belt, a fashionable accessory at the time, while Jaeger-LeCoultre illustrates its Métiers Rares with the Reverso One Precious Colours. In an art deco style, the case is adorned with a sumptuous geometric pattern in a dominant shade of blue or green.

Frédérique Constant's Highlife Ladies Automatic Sparkling is equally radiant. This limited edition of 888 pieces sparkles, from its blue dial studded with star dust to its bezel set with 60 diamonds. Finally, joie de vivre is the order of the day at Oris. In collaboration with Disney, the Propilot x Kermit, with its acid green dial features the star with whom so many children have grown up. On the first day of each month, the date window at 6 o'clock displays the frog from The Muppet Show, as if to invite us to take some time for ourselves. Long live Kermit Day!

This feminine edition of Watches & Wonders was rich in creation. We'll also be revealing our selection of the top men's trends for 2023 in an upcoming article.